Wood or Foam/Formica? It’s time to decide!

[billgewater]

I originally used an epoxy glued laminate on the galley benches and others nearby. The galley benches took a flogging with scratches and heat spot damage from hot saucepans. (45 years of it).
So when doing an upgrade a number of options were available including most of the suggestions provided by others.
But at the local paint shop I was introduced to paint products specifically designed to go over laminates. You can add various chips or bits to enhance the end result. It seems to work well on samples I looked at.
However, we finally costed the use of 316 SS sheeting. We have used it around the surface stove and the main galley work bench, but not elsewhere. It is light, very hygienic and resistant to really hot pans and never stains etc.
It has soft folded edges etc. where needed and it was placed over a heat resistant contact adhesive on top of the old surface.
It actually cost less than any other option except the painting one. The sheet metal worker turned up, offered some helpful suggestions, gave a quote and returned a day later. It took about twenty minutes to install.
Not particularly decorative (matches the SS sink and SS stove top) but really functional.

The management (spouse) is very happy with it. Give it some thought.

[Chotu]

“ ITW Plexus structural adhesive systems are ideal for the marine industry because they need little to no surface preparation; therefore reducing dust emissions and increasing production speed. They can be used for a variety of applications including composite stringers, liners and deck to hull bonding. From ski boats to mega yachts, more than 75% of the boat builders count on ITW Plexus 1:1 and 10:1 marine formulations for their bonding needs.”

[smj]

Originally Posted by Chotu

“ ITW Plexus structural adhesive systems are ideal for the marine industry because they need little to no surface preparation; therefore reducing dust emissions and increasing production speed. They can be used for a variety of applications including composite stringers, liners and deck to hull bonding. From ski boats to mega yachts, more than 75% of the boat builders count on ITW Plexus 1:1 and 10:1 marine formulations for their bonding needs.”

Can you post the part about bonding to un sanded epoxy?

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by smj

Can you post the part about bonding to un sanded epoxy?

I can’t find it of course now that I’m looking. I know I read it somewhere in my hours of research.

My hull has quite a bit of peel ply pattern (no need to sand to bond anything to that). Where there is some less rough epoxy, it has massive triaxial weave which even polyester has had no problem bonding to. It’s rough. Tons of texture.

Getting rid of that texture is another cosmetic and non structural project I have ahead of me. Thickened polyester has been just fine in testing to do that. Used it like drywall/Sheetrock mud/bog and it can’t be peeled off with a screwdriver under the edge.

[smj]

Originally Posted by Chotu

I can’t find it of course now that I’m looking. I know I read it somewhere in my hours of research.



My hull has quite a bit of peel ply pattern (no need to sand to bond to that). Where there is some less rough epoxy, it has massive triaxial weave which even polyester has had no problem bonding to. It’s rough. Tons of texture.

Sounds like a winner of a product for you. When bonding to bare wood are you supposed to wet out the bare wood with polyester resin before applying the plexus or will it bond to bare wood?

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by smj

Sounds like a winner of a product for you. When bonding to bare wood are you supposed to wet out the bare wood with polyester resin before applying the plexus or will it bond to bare wood?

I don’t know yet.

It’ll certainly bond to cured polyester. I’m not sure how it will go with wood.

I do want all the wood sealed, however. Life gets in the way and sometimes you have to leave your boat. That’s just when a hatch starts leaking or a window is blown out by a hurricane in my experience. So I’d like to make the wood resistant to water falling directly on it.

[s/v Jedi]

The only potential problem I see is amine blush interfering with the bond so make sure to wash all that fiberglass with water before tabbing to it with polyester, vinylester or adhesives.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

The only potential problem I see is amine blush interfering with the bond so make sure to wash all that fiberglass with water before tabbing to it with polyester, vinylester or adhesives.

It’s been washed for years. And multiple times. Mostly to clear 100% of epoxy dust out.

Thank you for the reminder.

It’s been a while. Getting back into the swing of building.

I mostly used non blushing epoxy on all of my boat and it was mostly all resin infusion. except the taping in of bulkheads, which was hand layup biax. So luckily, no blush in hulls or bulkheads. Just a possibility where they meet.

[geoleo]

Originally Posted by Chotu

Let’s add one more crazy idea!

Corrugated Cardboard core (honey comb) and Formica Faces.

Not crazy! I have done it!

[s/v Jedi]

Here's another option: https://www.worldpanel.com/ultralight-xps-panels

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by geoleo

Not crazy! I have done it!

Did you find any reasonable prices on a honeycomb core material??

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Here's another option: https://www.worldpanel.com/ultralight-xps-panels

Thanks for the link. Certainly something to consider.

[Brewgyver]

Originally Posted by Chotu

I hate Australia!! Very jealous!!! Ha ha ha.

(Joking, don’t actually hate Australia)

You guys have EVERYTHING over there when it comes to materials, panels, great looking things that go together quickly and come out nice looking.

We have some boulders and logs in the States in comparison. Maybe also the skin of a wild animal. We are expected to create miracles with Stone Age materials over here.

I think you'll find those materials are here in the states, too. In fact, originated here, at DuPont. Fairly heavy compared to plywood. A 6mm (1/4") 4x8 sheet is a bit over 70 pounds.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Brewgyver

I think you'll find those materials are here in the states, too. In fact, originated here, at DuPont. Fairly heavy compared to plywood. A 6mm (1/4") 4x8 sheet is a bit over 70 pounds.

I see!

Thanks for the information. Definitely too heavy for me.

I have some test Tricel core coming in in a few weeks to try out some Formica/tricell/Formica panels.

If that experiment doesn’t work, it probably on to plain old marine ply, sealed with polyester, painted to hopefully come out like SMJ’s work.

[Chotu]

At this point, all signs are pointing to wood.

Problem with the Formica finishes are weight.

Formica/core panel
4x8 Formica Sheet: 11lbs x2 faces = 22lbs
4x8 Core (foam or honeycomb@5lb/cuff density) = 6.5lbs
Some Glue/contact cement for this panel weighs the same as some paint for the wood do they cancel out.
Total weight 4x8 panel installed - 28.5lbs


Marine ply panel
1/4” 4x8 okoume marine ply = 18lbs
16’ of 1x2 furring strip for sticks as needed = 4lbs
Paint weighs same as contact cement for Formica so cancels out.

Total weight 4x8 panel installed -max 22lbs


Considering I have to make the Formica panels and replace core in many areas with wood anyway for hinges, etc, the plywood should go up faster even if finish work of painting and/or polyester is involved.