Want To Buy: Superwind 350

[GRIT]

I'm looking to purchase a Superwind 350. If you have one you'd like to sell, let me know.

If you'd like to upgrade to their new Star Hub, Superwind 350 II, then here's your opportunity to sell your original Superwind 350.

Cheers.
Paul.

[Bill O]

Paul,
Question for you, why would you want the 350 version, when the Pro version seems as good w/more output??

[GRIT]

Hi Bill.

Unless you're referring to the newest version, 350 mkii, I dont know of which model you refer.

I've never heard of the pro version. The only versions I know of are the 350, 350 ii, 353, and the 1250. The 353 has the exact same output as the 350 MKI and MK II, and the 1250 is too large.

Can you help me out here? And do you have one to sell?

Cheers.
Paul.

[Bill O]

It was from this site that listed a Pro version, which was cheaper than the 350.

Unfortunately this isn't our wind gen that we currently are using. Just thought you may have some good info to relate to why you wanted this wind gen besides their advertising to survive high winds.

[bergius]

Originally Posted by Bill O

It was from this site that listed a Pro version, which was cheaper than the 350.

That “Pro” is a SilentWind, while the other is a SuperWind. Different products with different manufacturers and capabilities.

[GRIT]

There's your answer, it's not a superwind.

I'm looking for a superwind, because during Nicole (starting three days ago) my Marine kinetix had to be shut down at 28 knots. With no sun, and no wind charging, I was three days without a good charging source. Superwind will charge in up to 80 knots of wind.

I've spoken with Superwind, but they only sell kits now, with their controller and stop switch. Eventhough their manual says you can use a different controller, they now bundle everything up and won't sell without their controller. That's $600 I'd have to dispose of, and that's just a waste of money.

I have a much more sophisticated system than theirs, which charges based on battery state of charge (calculated with a coulomb counter), theirs uses voltage, which is grossly inaccurate with lithium batteries.

A used Superwind can be rebuilt if it's in good condition, and I can regulate it as I please.

And that is the long version of why I would rather buy a used one, over a new one, at the moment. I may have to go new, but I'd rather explore my options first.

Our Marine Kinetix still works fine, but we've decided that having to shut it down at 28 knots is a flaw we'd rather not have.

Cheers.
Paul.

[LifesBetterWhenYoureBeating]

Why did you have to shut down the MK4+ at 28 knots?

[GRIT]

It's what their controller does to protect the generator. I don't know if it would burn up or not, but the blades made quite a noise at 30 knots while they flutter. That may be due to a stiff yaw bearing, forcing the blades to take the wind at an angle, I dont know. A new bearing awaits, at my mail forwarder. I should have it next week. A victim of sitting in the port hull for a month awaiting a pole repair. I laid it on it's side, and somehow the bearing seems to have corroded.

Cheers.
Paul.

[LifesBetterWhenYoureBeating]

Originally Posted by GRIT

It's what their controller does to protect the generator. I don't know if it would burn up or not, but the blades made quite a noise at 30 knots while they flutter. That may be due to a stiff yaw bearing, forcing the blades to take the wind at an angle, I dont know. A new bearing awaits, at my mail forwarder. I should have it next week. A victim of sitting in the port hull for a month awaiting a pole repair. I laid it on it's side, and somehow the bearing seems to have corroded.

Cheers.
Paul.

I guess yours is the mk4+ as well? I've only seen the controller engage the brake when it produced more than 25A (as the manual mentions) or when my batteries are full, but I've had it running on more than 30 knots, although only gusts. Did you talk to Jeff at MK about it?

[GRIT]

Yes. The mk4+ produces 25 amps at 28 knots, so we're talking about the same thing.

Either way, it shuts itself down around 28 knots, and I could have used a unit that put out at 50 knots. The superwind does this.

The charge curve steadies around 25 amps, at around 28 knots as well, and keeps on charging right up to 80 knots.

I have this issue when beating in 20 knots of wind too. The apparent wind surpasses 30 knots, and that's where Jeff wants it shut down at 28 knots. Even their power curve stops at 30 knots.

I cam see the regulator having a buffer, and letting it go in gusts, to over 28 knots, or 25 amps, but my issue is that I don't want it to shut down at all. We had over 30 knots, and yesterday morning up to 50 knots, and the marine kinetic just won't charge in those winds..

Thanks.
Paul.

[fxykty]

We have a Superwind 350 with their SCR 12 controller (not selling it, sorry). The controller is very basic and outputs constant voltage, which is fine for our LFP system but we installed a BMS-controlled contactor to cut the charge when instructed.

What controller or regulator do you plan to use with it? We wouldn’t mind having a smarter unit.

[GRIT]

HI Fxykty.

It sounds like you're already doing what I do, but have the controller in series with your contactor. I'm not sure what the benefit of the controller is though, if you're regulating the voltage with the contactor.

I'm not using a manufactured controller with the Marine Kinetix. I'm using the Victron BMV, and have it actuate an DPST relay. In the case of the Marine Kinetix, the relay when "off" shorts the windgen outputs, and keeps the windgenerator from producing energy, and effectively stops the blades from turning. (this is exactly how their controller does it, but at a set voltage, with pwm to taper the charge before shut down) It's a normally off (open) relay, to protect my bank, so that if anything goes wrong, the default is off. In the case of a superwind, the relay would divert to a resistor, instead of shorting the outputs.

The BMV 912 turns the relay "on" when my bank has been drained to a set level, in my case 92%. Since wind seldom does anything but slow the drain, I decided to have it on early. Most of the time, this just slows the drain overnight, and ends up being turned "off" sometime in the morning, when the solar panels have brought the bank up to the 98% level. Of course, if there's wind, it'll actually charge, but will be shut down at 98%.

It should be noted, that you have to tell the Victron where 100% is, once you decide where that is, then it'll use that to start the coulomb counter.

The downside to this system, for the Marine Kinetix, is that there is required a second relay, attached to an amp monitoring switch, and a delay, to shut off the unit during high wind situations. But this last isn't required for the Superwind wind generators, as they feather the blades and take care of themselves.

I had a very long post written, but this one is more to the point.

After reading my extra long post, I've come to realize that I could just as easily set the BMV 712 to 13.6 and forget about the Coulomb counter all together. This works at 13.6v because CALB says that's the recommended float voltage for "standby" systems, and the bank can be left at that voltage indefinitely, without harming the cells. 13.6v is about 95% charged.

I also have a switch installed to stop the windgenerator for maintenance, or when we want to enjoy the aft cockpit without have to listen to the windgen (even though it's a whisper, it's still there).


Cheers.
Paul.

[fxykty]

Hey Paul, we use the SCR controller to ensure that the output voltage is correct and to get it to load dump when it senses charging is no longer required. We just had Superwind in Germany service the controller to solve an issue with continuous load dumps. If we still have that issue we might just as well remove the controller and replace it with an Orion DC-DC converter, though I’m not sure whether the input voltage range would go high enough (I’ve seen 20+ volts). Most of the time the input voltage into the controller is in the range 14-18V. Hence my interest in what you are using as a controller.

The contactor on the positive output of the controller is to simply cut the line in case of the BMS stop charge trigger activating. It will also open if either the high voltage warning or and the high voltage cut off triggers activate.

We also have a stop switch and mostly use it when we can’t be bothered to have the wind generator turning - the blades don’t make much sound at all, usually less than the sound of the wind in the rigging of the boat and the commensurate wave conditions. But our berth is under the support pole and there is an apparent thrumming sound down below when the blades are turning (much less once we replacing the bushing on the unit’s pole mount and added a thick rubber washer to the base of the pole where it mounts to the deck).

While we’ve never seen more than 50 knots yet, it is neat to see at around 45 knots how the blades feather and the turning slows right down. It was pumping out 30A at the time.

If there wasn’t a wind generator on the boat we probably wouldn’t buy one, but it is a nice 24/7 addition to the power budget, at least at windy times. The Superwind does need at least 15 knots to generate anything at all.

[Jagarwal]

Hi Grit,

I have a super wind 350 I recently pulled from my boat.
My reason for doing so was simply the noise it made; I figured I could get as much or more power just adding panels without having to listen to the noise. Other than that it was operating fine and I even have two spare blades.

I was planning to sell it, hadn’t listed it yet. I’d be happy to sell it to you but the problem is that it’s in Panama. If shipping’s not a problem I’d be happy to talk further.

Why are you seeking out this unit? Is their production really superior to other windgens? Their noise production certainly is.

Best
Jack

[GRIT]

fxykty.

Thanks for your input.

I don't think you'll find your controller converts/limits the higher voltage into lower voltage, to charge your batteries. To the best of my knowledge, the voltage goes in "wild" and the controller only comes into effect when the battery voltage nears charged. That's when PWM comes in to taper the charge, and maintain an acceptance voltage. Otherwise, the voltage just goes in full on, and is instantly lowered by the resistance in your bank.

I don't have a link to back this up, but I'd be happy to challenge anyone to find a link to refute it. If they fine one, I'll have learned something new, and saved a headache with my own bank.


Cheers.
Paul.