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**Jammer** · 28-01-2024, 16:59

Recently, my brother bought a Suzuki DF2.5 intending to use it on his newly acquired Wenonah Backwater. Unfortunately, he ended up purchasing a long-shaft DF2.5 as that was the only configuration in stock at the vendor he used, and he did not realize his mistake until after taking his wife (and his brand new boat motor) for a swim in the river (Long-shaft outboards have a greater capsizing moment arm when making sharp turns).

I have dried out his boat motor for him (it's fine) and converted it to short shaft.

I offer these parts for sale:

Long shaft spacer block including two dowel pins, two bolts, two washers, and the plastic driveshaft bushing.
Driveshaft, long version
Shift linkage, long version
Water tube, long version

Except for soft parts, this is everything you'll need to convert your short-shaft DF2.5 to long shaft. Depending on the age and condition of the motor you're converting and how careful you are during disassembly, you may also need a water pump gasket, an E-clip and a spring for the shift linkage, a propshaft seal, an O-ring for the propshaft bearing carrier assembly, a powerhead-to-leg gasket, the driveshaft e-clip, gear oil, and other similar minor, inexpensive parts.

Asking $100 plus shipping which is half of what you'd pay to Suzuki. Make offer. Parts are in the Minneapolis area.

Conversion is straightforward. The powerhead has to be removed (four bolts IIRC) to access the shift linkage and remove the water tube. The propeller, prop shaft, and bearing carrier have to be removed from the lower unit to disengage the E-clip from the driveshaft. 2 hour job if you're good at this sort of thing.

Uncle Bob · 28-01-2024, 17:57

Now that you're up to speed with removing the powerhead, may I make the suggestion that you do so at least annually and reassemble the the splined shaft to powerhead with PLENTY of waterproof grease on the spline and to the top of the shaft. The crappy little adapter between crankshaft spline and shaft spline is made of ***** metal and when it rusts the internal spline chews out rendering what is quite a good little outboard effectively useless.

All for the sake of a part worth less than $20 but requires virtually a major rebuild to repair, expensive if you don't have the time and skillset.