Want To Buy: VW Pathfinder marine diesel

[GRIT]

That's true. And a good point for Tanton's "new" engine.

Timing belts have to be replaced at set intervals. It's pretty normal to have to do this for timing belts of all kinds; but VW diesels are "interference" engines, so it really is critical.

It's not difficult to do, and the procedure is covered by lots of chat forums.

Tanton37: If your installing a "new to you" 1.6l, it would be a good idea to change the timing belt before installing all your marinizing gear.

I'm happy to be able to help, David.

Cheers.
Paul.

[Scubaseas]

Originally Posted by GRIT

That's true. And a good point for Tanton's "new" engine.

Timing belts have to be replaced at set intervals. It's pretty normal to have to do this for timing belts of all kinds; but VW diesels are "interference" engines, so it really is critical.

It's not difficult to do, and the procedure is covered by lots of chat forums.

Tanton37: If your installing a "new to you" 1.6l, it would be a good idea to change the timing belt before installing all your marinizing gear.

I'm happy to be able to help, David.

Cheers.
Paul.

And change the three front engine seals while you're at it. Use a good quality timing belt like Continental or OE VW. Make sure you time it and the fuel injection pump correctly. I have VW service manuals from way back then if you need info PM me. I have professional manuals from 1960s to 2006ish. Retired foreign car shop owner and master mechanic. I've fixed lots and lots of those engine.

[AuroraGH]

Originally Posted by tanton37

Looking for anyone who has one of these engines who'd be willing to share information on them. I recently aquired one that I intend to install in my build but have some questions. Please feel free to contact me directly at catketchme@gmail.com Thanks,David

I have one. I don't love it.

Power to weight ratio is poor. I run 1800 rpm for most economical cruise and around 2150 - 2200 for top speed. The engine is not really running optimally at that rpm so I'm probably getting maybe 30hp out of an engine rated for twice that. And compared to a 30hp yanmar (which I have seen installed in sister ships), it is a lot bigger, heavier and louder. Vibrates the heck out of the boat at certain rpms.

Finding people who will work on it is a pain. I'm no diesel mechanic although I think if you are going to have one of these you'd better become one. My experiences with mechanics on it have been very mixed.

The plumbing for the "marinization" is very home made looking and there are an awful lot of tubes connected by bits of hose with clamps. I have had issues getting to all of these to replace the rubber as it aged.

According to my mechanic, a catastrophic timing belt failure will be the death of the engine as they tend to slap a hole in the manifold and at that point he tells me the thing makes a better anchor than motor. So keep up on that as others have mentioned.

That said...they can be gotten for CHEAP and it is the engine that came with the boat and I'm in no hurry to shell out the big bucks to swap it out as long as it keeps running.

[AndyEss]

Originally Posted by GRIT

I found a few photos from when we were installing the engine in our old Corbin 39. I don't seem to have any photos of the Injection pump side.

Those bent copper tubes were really well done. John was a very fastidious fellow, RIP.

Cheers.
Paul.

Very nicely done copper tubing for several of the more unusual freshwater cooling runs. My engine still has the Pathfinder silicone custom radiator hoses for these sections. The copper looks bulletproof.

[AndyEss]

Originally Posted by Scubaseas

And change the three front engine seals while you're at it. Use a good quality timing belt like Continental or OE VW. Make sure you time it and the fuel injection pump correctly. I have VW service manuals from way back then if you need info PM me. I have professional manuals from 1960s to 2006ish. Retired foreign car shop owner and master mechanic. I've fixed lots and lots of those engine.

If your top RPM is only 2200, there is something wrong in your setup. Maybe your prop pitch is to high?
You should be able to run 3000 to 3500 RPM easy. The engine is noisy, but shouldn’t be inducing much vibration. Prop shaft misalignment, bad motor mounts?

[GRIT]

The old VW idi engines topped out at 4800 rpm. Max torque is at 2000 rpm.

https://www.ultimatespecs.com/car-sp...%2F%2089%20mph.

I agree with AndyEss, 3500 rpm easily. I'd say you're overpropped.

I also agree with the motor mounts, or alignment statement, by AndyEss.

They're a noisy engine, but they're smooth running. We never had an issue with any kind of vibration. Part of the allure of VW diesels (Pathfinder) in boats is that you can grab your neighbourhood VW mechanic and a few beer, and have your engine worked on. No need to pay marine prices. Same for the engine parts/prices.

And, for cruising in far flung places... there are lots of these engines all over the world; in Rabbits, Golfs, Caddys, pickups, utes, and busses. Spare parts should be easy to come by, just about anywhere.

Cheers.
Paul.

[AuroraGH]

Originally Posted by AndyEss

If your top RPM is only 2200, there is something wrong in your setup. Maybe your prop pitch is to high?
You should be able to run 3000 to 3500 RPM easy. The engine is noisy, but shouldn’t be inducing much vibration. Prop shaft misalignment, bad motor mounts?

No idea, I'm not a mechanic, right? I mean, I can make it go harder but all I'm doing is making bubbles and burning diesel faster.

I had it gone over by a solid reputable mechanic. He did a new prop shaft when I had a cutlass bearing get sketchy.

As to the other comment about grabbing a guy from a VW shop, that has never worked. I always get "I don't do boats" from them.

[AndyEss]

Originally Posted by AuroraGH

No idea, I'm not a mechanic, right? I mean, I can make it go harder but all I'm doing is making bubbles and burning diesel faster.

I had it gone over by a solid reputable mechanic. He did a new prop shaft when I had a cutlass bearing get sketchy.

As to the other comment about grabbing a guy from a VW shop, that has never worked. I always get "I don't do boats" from them.

I’m onshore right now, but will be back on my boat later today. As it happens I’ve been working on my Pathfinder these last several days, changing some routing of the exhaust system to make the engine compartment in my canoe stern Hans Christian more user friendly.
I seem to remember that the Pathfinder manual stated that if all you can reach in top RPM is 2000-2500, you are over-propped. l did RPM vs boat speed test runs and seem to remember top RPM of 4000. I’ll check my notes.
What kind of prop do you have? I have a MaxProp 3 blade, set pitch and diameter in my notes.

[AuroraGH]

Originally Posted by AndyEss

I’m onshore right now, but will be back on my boat later today. As it happens I’ve been working on my Pathfinder these last several days, changing some routing of the exhaust system to make the engine compartment in my canoe stern Hans Christian more user friendly.
I seem to remember that the Pathfinder manual stated that if all you can reach in top RPM is 2000-2500, you are over-propped. l did RPM vs boat speed test runs and seem to remember top RPM of 4000. I’ll check my notes.
What kind of prop do you have? I have a MaxProp 3 blade, set pitch and diameter in my notes.

Michigan Wheel fixed 3 blade prop. Can't recall the pitch, it is in the boat book which is...on the boat. I will be down working on her this weekend and can check. I have a second prop I could have repitched to experiment with I suppose. I did not do the propulsion system, it was done by the previous owner, but I do know he experimented with pitches a bit.

[NorthCoastJoe]

I used to work on the VW diesel from the late 70s to early 80s. Two things stand out to me from my experiences. Timing belts is one. The other is if it overheats expect the head to warp and need surfacing.

[AndyEss]

Originally Posted by AuroraGH

Michigan Wheel fixed 3 blade prop. Can't recall the pitch, it is in the boat book which is...on the boat. I will be down working on her this weekend and can check. I have a second prop I could have repitched to experiment with I suppose. I did not do the propulsion system, it was done by the previous owner, but I do know he experimented with pitches a bit.

I’m having a beer and am too beat to look thru the Pathfinder manuals, but my notes are easy: 2200 RPM = 4.0 kn, 3000 = 4.8, 3200 = 5.0 and 3800=6.0.
I don’t remember if there were any more revs to go up. My notes say moderately clean bottom. I think I have a waterlength of 34 ft. I bet I weigh 30,000 lbs.

Your Pathfinder is definitely lugging.

[captlloyd]

Just a thought, if you have enough room, I am a proponent of a dry exhaust system if possible. In my opinion small diesels don’t seem to generate very much heat unless turbocharged. A good ventilation system with insulation can work wonders.

[AndyEss]

Originally Posted by captlloyd

Just a thought, if you have enough room, I am a proponent of a dry exhaust system if possible. In my opinion small diesels don’t seem to generate very much heat unless turbocharged. A good ventilation system with insulation can work wonders.

Thank you for the suggestion Capt. Lloyd. I’m basically just re-routing the exhaust hose out of the water lift muffler. I’ve got about $250 into new hose and some fittings. I’m not sure I want to experiment with a totally new exhaust concept.

[AndyEss]

[/IMG]

I hope the photo of a couple of pages of the short Pathfinder engine Users Guide loads and is readable. As I remembered, it states that only being able to reach low (2000-2500) RPM is indicative of being over-propped. Also there is some text of how an incorrect injector fuel pump cold start timing advance will result in rough running at low RPM. I hope this helps

(I can’t see the image. It did load successfully into the CF Photo Gallery, Yacht Maintenance section. I guess I need more practice in using the Image option)

[osprey877]

I have a pathfinder engine and they are great. Should cruise around 2800-3000 rpm, slightly faster according to manual if is an earlier 1.5 litre engine. Smooth and quiet, little smoke at this rpm. 2200 way too slow. Google Parts Place Inc in Wisconsin and then get a copy of their current parts catalog. They have all the engine parts, special tools and lots of tips etc for VW diesels. Parts are a fraction of the cost of Yanmar, Volvo etc.
If you have the engine out, take the injectors and pump to a Bosch diesel service centre and have them checked. Same with the ZF gearbox. Much easier to service now than trying to remove them later. Also, when you have the gearbox off, check that there are no loose springs or movement in the drive plate. Replace if any signs of wear or looseness.
Good luck.