Want to Rent: YOU! (Expert Epoxy Laminator) [South Florida]

[Chotu]

This is really a difficult decision. I want the composite chain plates because they make so much sense in my head. They also are a forever chain plate. Never need replacement. No metal fatigue. But of course, since I can’t laminate them myself, they will be more expensive.

And Grit, that was me. I was the one who said it should lift the weight of the boat. Ha ha. I guess what I meant by that is that is the force on them at maximum righting moment.

[Chotu]

I just want to say thank you to everyone participating in this thread also. This is one of the best threads I have ever seen on this forum. Really good ideas. Very thoughtful responses. This is like a model example of how threads should go.

[Benz]

Late to the party as usual...I missed this thread earlier.
Chotu--I've built carbon chainplates on two boats so far--one for a forum member's Crowther cat. I might have time in the next month for a week away if jimbunyard needs an extra hand (looks like a 2-person job to me; one inside and one out). With proper prep, each actual lamination should only take a few hours; with slow-cure (Pro-set 135-229?) it should all be doable in one shot.
PM me if you like and we can talk by phone.
Ben

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Benz

Late to the party as usual...I missed this thread earlier.
Chotu--I've built carbon chainplates on two boats so far--one for a forum member's Crowther cat. I might have time in the next month for a week away if jimbunyard needs an extra hand (looks like a 2-person job to me; one inside and one out). With proper prep, each actual lamination should only take a few hours; with slow-cure (Pro-set 135-229?) it should all be doable in one shot.
PM me if you like and we can talk by phone.
Ben

I’d be honored. And you can get a little warm sunshine.

I see this as a two person job also. Makes a lot more sense that way. I’ll send a message.

[GRIT]

Sandcrab. Thank you for the compliment.

The Chainplates are composite, and GRIT is a heavily modified KH 45. We had Kurt stretch the hulls to 49.5 feet.

CHOTU's boat is very similar, but is lighter than ours, and likely stiffer too.

Cheers.
Paul.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Chotu

And Grit, that was me. I was the one who said it should lift the weight of the boat. Ha ha. I guess what I meant by that is that is the force on them at maximum righting moment.

That's a reasonable metric to go by. But the key is this: they should be able to lift the boat (plus a bit IMO) while staying within the safe working load of the chainplate, not just within its breaking strength. So in other words, they should be able to lift the boat repeatedly without undue fatigue or issue.

[Chotu]

Something has come to mind.

I just realized it’s quite possible to infuse these!!!

I could put everything in place, bag it, provide resin supply lines at the lowest points, suction line at the top, use the same techniques I used to infuse the hulls, rudders, dagger boards and cross beams and I’ll have chainplates!

I could have my girlfriend mix the epoxy into the 5 gallon supply bucket.

After it kicks, she can remove the bag and paint over the whole thing with vinylester, entombing the evil resin forever.

Any big gaps in my thoughts ?

Anyone ever infuse an inch thick of glass? Will it flow ok through all that?

[Benz]

^^ If you've infused all those other parts, you probably know more about infusion than anyone here. Alls I know is that there are special infusion epoxies that flow better than standard laminating stuff.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Benz

^^ If you've infused all those other parts, you probably know more about infusion than anyone here. Alls I know is that there are special infusion epoxies that flow better than standard laminating stuff.

I guess that’s probably true. Basically my entire boat was infused. Hulls (in one scary shot), rudders, dagger boards, all connective beams. But there are a couple people here with infusion experience that may hopefully mention the difficulties involved in infusing a really thick stack of glass like that. I think I’ll need some inter-laminate flow media to keep things progressing nicely.

One thing I’ve overlooked is the prep work, which I also can’t to. I have a finished hull outside that needs abrasion down to glass and inside is all shiny epoxy. So plenty of epoxy related work to do yo get it ready for infusion.

And yes. For any larger size parts, you need infusion (thin) epoxy.

[GRIT]

I considered infusing mine, and have infused 20 layers of glass at once, without any sort of interlayer media, and it worked fine. BUT...

I didn't infuse the chainplates because I was concerned about the layers pinching up at the top as the resin fills the glass, and allows more debulking, and causing a wrinkle. I have seen it happen on similar infusions, and I didn't want to deal with that possibility. I think you could likely debulk it a couple of times, and minimize the chance of that happening.
I think with good preparation, you could certainly do it, but I'd personally break it up into two or three separate infusions, with less debulking necessary. But then there's some prep in between infusions, as I'd not trust peel ply to give enough bite for Chainplates. I'd want to rough it up a bit with 60 or 80 grit between infusions. But your girlfriend could do that too.

If you were to infuse it all at once, I agree with you about the interlaminate flow material. I think I'd use one every 15 layers, though I'd check with the manufacturer, as I've no experience with interlayer media.

PS. I cut a piece of the deck out about 3 inches by 10 inches, at the top of the chainplate, to make it easier to work on. It's a simple matter to put the piece back in afterward, trim and fair it into the chainplate.

Cheers.
Paul.