American Samoa?

[Blue-Peter]

My wife and I are considering major lifestyle changes, and have begun to explore the possibility of moving to American Samoa as a base to cruise the Pacific. We both have careers that would allow us to work in Pago Pago as well. However, my research has turned up virtually nothing about what day-to-day life would be like there. There does not appear to be much of a cruising community, and the island seems to be very, very quiet. Is there any nightlife? Unlike Hawaii, is seems like you can pretty much do everything in about a month. From what I've seen, it reminds me a little bit of the north shore of Kauai. My concern is that after the novelty of living there wears off, we would be bored out of our minds. My other concern is that the Island is apparently very religious and we are definitely not. Does anyone have any insight or alternatives to AS as a base of operations for cruising? Thank you!

[UNCIVILIZED]

Cruising where exactly, & how? For I'm uncertain as to what you mean by base. There are other US Protectorates in the Pacific if that's what you're asking.

[Boatguy30]

So you need internet for your job or uncle Sam/Donald for your job?

There honestly is a lot of spousal abuse child neglect, etc in modern Polynesian society. Blame capt cook or whatever, but it is the reality. I would think this would wear pretty thin in Samoa as it does in parts of NZ for me. But maybe not.

Report back after 6 months!

[Blue-Peter]

Yes, I know that there are other U.S. Territories, but they seem to be mostly dedicated to serving the U.S. Navy etc. I guess my question is what kind of life can you have on AS? By "base" I mean a place where we could go and work to earn some money between cruises. For example, major boat overhaul, haul-out, provisioning etc. We could plan a long cruise, prepare the boat, work and save, cruise, return, repeat. That is the thing that got me to think about AS in the first place - We and work there b/c we are U.S. citizens.

I am completely new to this so maybe I am not explaining this well, or maybe I just simply don't know what I am talking about. I am really just trying to find out what it is like to live & work there. Is there a significant community of cruisers? Is AS favored or disfavored by sailors for any particular reason? When McDonald's is listed among the "best" restaurants in Pago Pago, it makes me think that there is nothing going on there. YouTube searches of Pago Pago are not encouraging.

[SV DestinyAscen]

Where are you looking to cruise?

Have you looked at Guam? Yah it's right in the heart of typhoon zone but it's also a great place to base op if you're planning to sail away during the right seasons.

If I were young and able to, I'd use Guam as home port and sail to the Philippines, use the south China Sea, sail up to Taiwan, Korean and around Japan for a bit between August and November and head south to Guam when the winds change. Spend christmas in Guam then head into the south pacific like new Caledonia, Solomon islands, etc.

[UNCIVILIZED]

I'm gathering that you guys want to explore the Pacific, though what region(s) is yet to be mentioned? Any hints? As there are lots, & lots of places to call "home" while cruising. Most of them in foreign countries. As is the case with lots of the cruisers on here. Though some people will store their boat on the hard, somewhere far afield, during their travels. And take a break to come back to the US (or where ever), in order to go back to work for a while. For me at least, I've read of this dozens & dozens of times over the years, mostly in Latitude 38 (magazine) www.Latitude38.com

The other kind of "home" that some cruisers have, is to either buy some land somewhere along the way. In the US or abroad. That, or they may have property(s) here in the US which get managed by a 3rd party while they're out cruising. And by managed, I mean rented out.

Also, quite a large percentage of people figure out how to live, & work in countries along the way while cruising. Often living on their boats for the periods of work. Though some will rent flats, or even buy homes in other countries.
Yes, you have to find out what the rules are for many of these things, as well as the multiple exceptions to them. As for the last half century plus, traveling, living, & working abroad has been quite common.
Someone quite close to me lived, worked, & raised a family here, over the course of 25yrs as a legal alien, prior to earning her citizenship.

So flesh out your Dream Sheet on what you think you'd like to do, & then start kicking obstacles out of the way. Plus, if we know more of your goals, lots of insights & assistance can be provided.

Edit: Here's one example of financing crusing while "out there" http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...an-176969.html

Also, there are several threads which may be of help. Titled things like "shoestring budget" (cruising), making money while cruising, cruising on $500/month, cruising on $1,000/month, etc.
One other thing to consider, is what skills could you pick up the easiest that would allow you to earn $ anywhere. Such as a diesel mechanic, sailmaker, computer programmer, or even fixing bicycles.

[gamayun]

Island life isn't for everyone. From what I hear from friends, there is a strong distinction between the Samoan and non-Samoan communities on the island, and it was primarily due to language. Locals spoke Samoan almost exclusively, unless they were speaking directly to you. This, combined with a culture that centered strongly around church and family activities on the weekends, made it hard to get to know people outside of work, despite the fact that they were some of the kindest people. You might want to try to spend a month or two there and see how it is directly before you commit.

[Tetepare]

There are, to my mind, three things to consider: natural environment, society, and proximity.

Tutuila is a beautiful island. Add in Tau and Ofu, and it is typical Polynesian paradise. The harbor is fairly well protected (except in cyclone) and deep, deep water. However, "weekend" cruising is limited, since the only other reasonable harbor on Tutuila is just around the corner near the airport.

It's only 125km from Pago to Apia, which gives you a whole new cruising ground on Upolu, and then on to the most beautiful and undeveloped Savai'i. However, as with Tutuila, decent anchorages are limited.

To my mind, American Samoa and Samoa are best for hiking, not sailing.

The harbor at Apia is large and commercial. At the end there are usually a dozen or so cruising or live-board boats. Being commercial, the harbor is filthy- I would not swim in it. And with two big tuna canning factories, it can stink.

There are decent bars and restaurants- but not many. The hotel that is on the location of the former and famous Rainmaker hotel has decent food, drink, and atmosphere.

American Samoa is Polynesia-ruined-by-America. Employment is low, particularly because one of the canning factories is down. Petty crime, particularly break-ins are extremely common. Graft and corruption are rife in the government. Overall it's a poor environment and attitude.

Work ethic is far different than we know it. Good luck getting reliable help with boat chores or anything, or getting that badly needed part through Customs.

You will tire of Pago in short order.

Saipan Sucks, at least according to the website (google Saipan Sucks) and well, it's largely true.

Guam has a lot to offer. The government corruption is there, along with urban filth and crime. But it's big enough that there are parts of the island you'd swear nobody has ever been to, and it has a hospital, and a wide choice of dining and markets.

If I had to spend a year cruising one country it would be Solomon Islands. If I also wanted to be near more modern conveniences it would be Palau. Palau also has the benefit of a short air flight to Philippines for a "better" hospital.

What else do you want to know about Pago?

[a64pilot]

Keep the info coming, cause the Pacific, South Pacific anyway is my dream.
I want to hear as much as I can, and unlike the OP, I am after the places that have no night life and absolutely no Mcdonalds

[Boatguy30]

It gets dark early in cruising season.

[HighTemp]

Not trying to start an argument, but I am confused as to why the degree of religious belief on an island is of any real concern. They won't force it upon you, but they probably wouldn't welcome any unsolicited criticism of their way of life as well.

I have lived on Guam, Saipan, and in the Marshalls, and they have all shown a unique sense of pride in their island culture. I found them to be warm and generous peoples. They make you feel at home, at least in my case they have, but they will not hesitate to remind you that if you don't like they way they do things, on their island, you are certainly welcome to leave.

Based on your initial post, I agree with others in that Guam and Saipan sound as if they probably offer the right mix of island life and western culture ( USA ). Plenty of activities on both, including nightlife, diving, fishing, hiking, etc... Very hard to get bored. They both present the opportunity / ability to make a living as well.

[JPA Cate]

A64pilot,

The year we crossed from Mexico to New Zealand, there were some Americans who went to American Samoa to stock up on American stuff: booze, peanut butter, stewed tomatoes, etc. No one has ever praised it as a cruising destination, only provisioning. For cruising, the other islands are better, with the caveats that apply throughout the Pacific. Like Dorothy, you're not in Kansas any more.

The native cultures, though certainly changed by continuing contact with the outer world, have different expectations than we do, and you can learn about the easier to do things that help you be accepted. Just knowing that you're a guest there leads you to treat the people respectfully, and they like that. They may have the appearance of poverty to you, with your American accustomization, but to themselves, they are not poor, they have full lives, and most of what they think they need. They will instantly feel it if you were to look down on them. The Polynesians are remarkably generous.

Speaking for myself, I read a lot before we went, mostly cultural anthropology, Cultures of Oceania sort of thing, which sort of gives an idea of how it was, once upon a time. Captain Cook's Journals are very interesting. There are museums you go to, people loan you books, and we used the Lonely Planets guides to the countries we visited, which include brief economic histories and points of interest. I would buy these new, not used. It's a problem with books and cruising guides that small things change, mostly the geography stays pretty similar. Also, cruisers exchange info via e-mail (we use ham radio for this), and well as having radio schedules. It was a way we found out where to not go, when there was an outbreak of violence or theft. Who scorns old fashioned tools has less tools in his toolbox.

Another source of information that doesn't get mentioned here much is the Seven Seas Cruising Association. Their bulletins are on line now, but members write in with experiences of where they've been, and would be more in date for the Marquesas, Tuamotus, Societies, Gambiers, Cooks, Tonga and Fiji than what i might contribute. Even our trip to the Solomons was a long time ago.

Now, for the OP, if you're the kind of person who likes an active night life and a lot of external stimulation, then, as a cruiser, you're going to enjoy "city" fixes, according to your tastes. I think you're right, Pago, would bore you silly. Actually, unless you can tolerate long periods of inactivity and still amuse yourself somehow, you may find cruising is not for you. The South west Pacific is unlike major population centers. Also, the Marquesas are a long way upwind from Samoa, and the Tuamotus, and the Societies. So, unless you are keen on sailing to windward in trade winds, you would miss a lot.

Ann

[Tetepare]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Keep the info coming, cause the Pacific, South Pacific anyway is my dream.
I want to hear as much as I can, and unlike the OP, I am after the places that have no night life and absolutely no Mcdonalds

There is a McD in Pago. IIRC there is one (or a copy) in Apia as well.

Nightlife in Polynesia gets rough, particularly after midnight. Add very drunk, very big guys, women, and alcohol and things get pretty ugly. Fights, including deaths, are not uncommon.

The concept of private property in legacy Polynesia is much more flexible than western society. What's mine is yours...and what's yours is mine. A Polynesian family has to keep an eye on their stuff, lest a relative walk in the house and walk out with it. So when it comes to your relatively upscale (and that's a stretch) home, and nobody is there, well, it's fair game. Thus the homes of foreigners often have fences, barred windows, and a local kid at night keeping an eye on things.

Foreign management is out for a rude awaking upon arrival. They stop off the plane into paradise, and walk into the office with a million improvements that could be made at no cost. Of those improvements 999,990 will never happen, no matter how many times instructions are given. Employees don't show up for work, show up drunk. Things move slower than CONUS.

You CAN make friends in Polynesia. It depends on attitude. If you are better than them, or yell at them, you burned a bridge. If you learn to speak Samoan, try to live Fa'a Samoa, and take life at their speed, things will go much smoother. If you piss somebody off, you'll have the wrath of their relatives who inevitably work in the market where you order food and the government office that can't find your permit (got it?)

One does not have to be religious in Pago. One should accept the invitation to church. One would NEVER argue religion, and when they say "steer clear of politics" it was meant for American Samoa.

In public women will cover appropriately. Period. You don't have to like it, but it beats those sideways looks and whispers. And don't blame them for the gossip, you started it.

There are plenty of continental Americans (white men) in Pago. It is USA after all. There is even an FBI office (which is very busy.) AFAIK they keep to themselves; I infer this, as I've not spoken with any continental white fellas.

I think living aboard in the harbor would be tough. It's noisy, it's dirty. You can't dive off the boat for a swim. Fresh water is questionable. If you stay dockside the risk of a break-in is very real. Food is expensive (California expensive, not Tahiti expensive.)

If you're accustomed to mainland 4G/LTE data rates, forget it. If your job is internet based it's going to cost you dearly.

Note: calling TO American Samoa from CONUS be careful. Both the country code and area code is 684. If you dial it as an area code it's expensive; if you dial it as a country code you'll really pay for it. So if you call, just call 1-684-xxxxxx not 011-684-xxxxx.

I suppose OP selected American Samoa because it is in the Pacific, and it is USA. True enough. And, there are regular flights to California, which is a REAL plus if you need to get to a hospital (a REAL hospital) NOW. And you're more-or-less living life according to US law. Sort of, I suppose better than some parts of LA. And you can speak English (which you can do almost anywhere anyway.) So while it's not what I consider the pristine Polynesia, it is a taste.

[boatman61]

I was there for around 3-4weeks and quite liked the place.. if your going to be living on the hook make sure your well bedded in.. there's a lot of junk on the bottom.. lifted carpet and the rusted front bodywork of a car before I managed to get a good hold.
There were several full time liveaboards there.. some who'd been there a couple of years.. a few other tied to the dock there.
Macdonalds is on the waterfront next to a ramshackle marina where I used to tie up the dinghy for runs ashore.. a few decent eateries around and bars, Sadie Thompsons 500metres or so past Mc D's was a neat place to hang out for a drink, Sadies by the Sea past the town and HM/Customs offices was okay as well..
You can't dive over the side for a swim but a bus ride will get you to some fair beaches.
I liked the place.. easy going and laid back and contrary to whats been said I did not find food expensive.. the Chinese supermarkets carried a decent range of ffood.. just watch out for the Chinese beer they sell.. its lethal.

[edmundsteele]

My wife and I have also very much enjoyed the Western Pacific Islands. Here are a couple of thoughts:

We seriously considered moving to Fiji with its 300 plus islands as cruising destinations. We looked at real estate for a month and discovered that it can be difficult to sell – not a lot of buyers. We also discovered that at the time of our visit, the island was experiencing a Dengue fever epidemic with thousands of cases and many deaths. For some reason or other this is not publicized in the tourist brochures. Worth checking on before you sign the contract.

The comments others have made about American Samoa and Western Samoa ring true. American Samoa society sucks and Western Samoa was by far a friendlier place to visit. We met a ex-patriot resident of Western Samoa and he explained to us that he was accepted into the village community where he bought his property. He also explained how a community event such as a birth, wedding, funeral is funded and that is, from each according to their ability to pay. Since he was obviously wealthy, he indicated that he was hit up to pay for the pig etc. just about every few days. On the other hand I am sure that if he became destitute, his neighbors would feed him and help him out. You just need to be aware of the ground rules up front when you participate in another culture.

We really liked Saipan and Guam (my wife attended High School in Guam) and these islands have obvious advantages for Americans such as US mail service at domestic rates. There are jobs there but expect very low pay. I particularly liked Saipan because the collapse of the garment industry left a population mix that is about a third “native”, a third “non-native Asian” and perhaps a third “other”. We found that this diverse mix provided a more open and liberal society than many of the other islands. You will know everyone on the islands in a couple of months if you attend the “HASH” events, although the run we did on Guam did have a couple of people in hospital but no actual deaths.