Chain Grabber Position For All Chain Rode

[Cynara]

With our monohull we don't always do a bridal. Most of the time it is easier not to

[nofacey]

To the OP, your equip & procedure are pretty good for normal weather. In high wind conditions, I’d keep the anchor loads off the windlass by using a chain hook on a short length of nylon that lived on deck, just long enough to reach past windlass….always at hand, secured anchor at sea, took load during setting in high winds, or if we were just anchoring for lunch/quick swim.

Your bridle chain hook is going to fall off occasionally, and can be a pain to engage if hanging over the side. I found these Kong chain grippers to be superb - placed it on chain on deck, then simply let a bit more chain out to load bridle. Reversed process to remove. Kong grippers can never fall off, yet disengage easily.

[gsuescum]

Originally Posted by kellmic5

Hi Cruisers,


My questions are:

1) Is it okay to set my anchor with my windlass taking the load?
2) Is placing the chain grabber from above the chain correct. I've heard another cruiser describe engaging the chain grabber from the bottom and then easing out a good deal of chain so that its hanging down on either side of the grabber. My worry is that without any sort of retention device, the chain grabber relies on tension in the system to remain engaged.
3) Advice on any other aspects of my setup/procedure would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your help!


Attachment 260552

1) I would not put the load on my windlass, you could damage it. They are not intended to take those loads. Get the bridle set up and attach the chain grabber then apply the load.

2) I don't think there is a "correct" way to use that grabber but I would guess that from below is better. You're less likely to have a situation where is slips off.



My procedure depends on what the bottom is and whether I expect tidal currents to flip the boat around.

For SAND

1) I let out chain at the same rate as the boat is falling back (whether from wind, current or running the engine) until I get to the length of chain I need to get the scope I want, then I attach my bridle (I usually go for at least 5:1 with the bridle included).

2) Now I start to crank the engine up slowly to 2000rpm (engine rated for 3200) and hold it for a couple minutes and check to see if she moves. If not then I crank up the engines a little higher to 2500+rpm for maybe 30 secs more. (If I'm in a place where the tide is going to flip the boat several times a day I don't pull back for very long. The true test of the anchor will be when the tide flips and she holds)

3) Then I set my alarms and have a glass of wine :-)


For MUD.

1) I let out chain at the same rate as the boat is falling back (whether from wind, current or running the engine) until I get to the length of chain I need to get the scope I want, then I attach my bridle (I usually go for at least 5:1 with the bridle included).

2) Don't pull back. I let the anchor sink into the mud slowly under it's own weight. IF you pull back on it, it can form a "mud ball" around the anchor that provides no resistance.

3) Then I set my alarms and have a glass of wine :-)

[Kurlie1]

I also use a soft shackle with a climbers loop to thread through the chain. As others have said ... it runs through the fairlead. Also I have a short snubber hook/lead (app 2ft) with a loop in bitter end which I keep on deck. I throw the loop over my deck cleat and hook the chain before I back down.... takes the strain off the windlass.

[Senojev]

Our anchoring process is to power the chain out while slowly reversing until we have laid out the required amount less about 20’. We then let the boat sit for around 15 to 20 minutes. Next we attach a 20’ nylon bridle with a chain hook and cleat off to our bow cleats. We then let out the remaining chain until the bridle is tight and slowly build up rpm in reverse up to 1200 rpm (40% wot).

In over 1000 nights at anchor, we have never had the chain hook fall off. On one occasion, we were dragging in unexpected 60 kt winds and had to abandon the bridle to let more chain out. The next day, the bridle came up still attached to the chain.

This works for us but each to what works for them.

[SuW]

Originally Posted by Senojev

Our anchoring process is to power the chain out while slowly reversing until we have laid out the required amount less about 20’. We then let the boat sit for around 15 to 20 minutes. Next we attach a 20’ nylon bridle with a chain hook and cleat off to our bow cleats. We then let out the remaining chain until the bridle is tight and slowly build up rpm in reverse up to 1200 rpm (40% wot).
In over 1000 nights at anchor, we have never had the chain hook fall off. On one occasion, we were dragging in unexpected 60 kt winds and had to abandon the bridle to let more chain out. The next day, the bridle came up still attached to the chain.
This works for us but each to what works for them.

Yes exactly, we do this. Except with a manual windlass I can veer out the chain and observe its behaviour. On our boat if the anchor is dragging, the chain will hang straight down rather than pull off out of the water a bit.

One question I have about snubbers - stimulated by your action in letting go the bitter end of the snubber in a sudden strong wind.

We have a strong eye bolt at the bow waterline. I'd like to use it with a snubber/chain hook, but I can't figure out how to release it suddenly if needed.. Do I have to attach a block and bring the biiter end of the snubber back to a bow chock?

Has anyone done this or is this just too complicated?

We presently bring the snubber end through a bow fairlead to a cleat, but it's 5 feet (1.5m) above the waterline and the boat horses around a bit in strong winds.

[Senojev]

A friend with a Diesel Duck has a strong bow eye and has a long nylon snubber and chain hook permanently attached. When not in use it’s cleated off with no danger of it flying around.

With his very high bow and good windage, it did help swinging and cut the amount of chain let out.

Admittedly, it could limit letting rode out in a rare emergency but his plan was a a razor hook like used for cutting line caught by a prop.

[wsmurdoch]

Originally Posted by SuW

One question I have about snubbers - stimulated by your action in letting go the bitter end of the snubber in a sudden strong wind.

We have a strong eye bolt at the bow waterline. I'd like to use it with a snubber/chain hook, but I can't figure out how to release it suddenly if needed.. Do I have to attach a block and bring the biiter end of the snubber back to a bow chock?

Has anyone done this or is this just too complicated?

I have seen a snap shackle securing a trawler snubber to an eye bolt at the bow water line. There was a 2 or 3 inch diameter ring in the small ring that the factory put in the end of the piston of the snap shackle. My guess was that the ring could be used to release the snap shackle with a boat hook leaving the snubber attached to the chain and allowing more anchor rode to be veered before attaching a second snubber. It would avoid hauling in 30 feet or so of chain to get to the snubber chain hook perhaps upsetting the anchor in the process. All this was a guess on my part; I did not ask.

[Cynara]

Make sure you know why you have that attachment place on the bow right at the water line. Bad place to have a leak

[SuW]

Originally Posted by Cynara

Make sure you know why you have that attachment place on the bow right at the water line. Bad place to have a leak

It's actually about 6 inches above the waterline and I have inspected it from inside. It has a large stainless backing plate, big washers and locking nuts, so we feel safe.

[fxykty]

Originally Posted by SuW

Yes exactly, we do this. Except with a manual windlass I can veer out the chain and observe its behaviour. On our boat if the anchor is dragging, the chain will hang straight down rather than pull off out of the water a bit.



One question I have about snubbers - stimulated by your action in letting go the bitter end of the snubber in a sudden strong wind.



We have a strong eye bolt at the bow waterline. I'd like to use it with a snubber/chain hook, but I can't figure out how to release it suddenly if needed.. Do I have to attach a block and bring the biiter end of the snubber back to a bow chock?



Has anyone done this or is this just too complicated?



We presently bring the snubber end through a bow fairlead to a cleat, but it's 5 feet (1.5m) above the waterline and the boat horses around a bit in strong winds.

Any snubber that is not cleated but is shackled to an eye (most common method with catamarans) has the problem of how to let out more chain without having to bring the chain in first. The answer is to use a knife. With your attachment near the waterline use a knife on a stick as mentioned earlier.

More complex is to rig a block and bring the bridle line up to the deck, but it really depends on the geometry of your bow area. If it works than that would be good a solution.