Replacing Single Pane windows

[tizzlizz27]

I recently bought a 1979 Universal Marine trawler and the condensation on the single-pane windows seems endless. The previous owners took great care of the boat, but I can tell by the state of the teak frame/sills and caulking that they struggled with this. I'm wondering about the feasibility of adding another pane, the frame has a good 3/4" between the current window and the interior sill.

[Dennis.G]

I think if you just add another pane of glass you will just end up with condensation and fogging between the panes. You will need to replace the glass panes with sealed double pane glazing to accomplish your end goal I believe.

[tizzlizz27]

Thanks, that's kind of what I thought. But if possible I'd like to keep the teak frames. I see you are in the Gulf of California. I dive out of Cabo Pulmo once in awhile, thinking of buying a dive shack between Pulmo & Los Barriles.

[thinwater]

Maybe. I've replaced the screens with 1/8" Lexan and not been plagued with condensation. It depends on the humidity. Generally, if you are heating the cabin the interior humidity goes quiet low and condensation is not an issue with double panes.

Do an expereiment. See if there is an easy way to keep them removable. They can also be put on the outside.



See the 3rd item down.

Sail Delmarva: A Few More Easy Upgrades

[Paul Howard]

I have stopped condensation of single pane windows on my catamaran by using double sided tape and plastic shrink wrap window coverings on the inside while wintering in the damp and chilly Beagle Channel winter. When back in the warmer parts, I simply took them off and used some acetone to clear off the glue from the interior vinyl liners.

I also had a friend with a Marine Trader trawler with the same condensation problem and some leaking on the sliding glass panes in the PNW. They had a canvas maker make plastic windows and canvas for the outside of the windows, a bolt rope slide for the top edge above the window and snaps around the other parts. This being on the outside, they did not have to modify the interior teak work and it prevented condensation and leaks and stopped the damp from staining the wood and interior.

[tizzlizz27]

Thinwater & Paul Howard, what great ideas! I'll experiment with the lexan on the stateroom/V-berth/head portholes. This is my first winter in the PNW & it's already getting into the low 30s at night. Paul's ideas just gave me a 'light-bulb' moment because I have window sheets over the salon PT/SB windows - condensation is only happening on the forward helm/galley windows & the stern windows.

[Manateeman]

You can fill the space with argon.

[psk125]

Originally Posted by Manateeman

You can fill the space with argon.

And when it leaks out, you can fill it again.

[Manateeman]

I have argon aboard in aluminum cylinders as I own an aluminum boat and a TIG welder on board as well. Our pilot house windows are laminated glass and naturally form condensation inboard. I’m going to try a thermal barrier on the inside .. probably thin plastic spaced about 1/4” toward the interior, with a silicon seal. Fill the space between with argon by a needle injection at the top followed by a quick seal. Poor people thermopane. Remove in spring.
Most of the time, we just crank up the interior heat and turn the interior of the boat into a Peruvian desert which does wonders for my nose and creates enough static electricity to keep visitors away.
To refresh my nasal cavities I lie under the drips from the dorade pipes and apply an unction of black mold and aluminum grinding shards.
Embrace the pain.
Kindest regards, Mark the manatee

[wsmurdoch]

As Paul Howard said in #5...

We have gone down to the Bahamas from North Carolina via the ICW in January each year for the past twelve. We cover our ports and our overhead Balmar hatches with window insulation kits from Lowes or Home Depot that include thin sheets of clear heat-shrink plastic and double sided tape for the trip to Miami where we take them off. The two layers work like a charm to stop the water dripping on the inside. There is little or no condensation between the plastic film and the true panes. The last few years we have thrown in a few packets of silica gel between the layers to totally remove any moisture between the layers. The packets last for the trip to Florida before they turn from blue to pink. Each year we re-dehydrate the packets in the microwave at home. If I were not so lazy, I'd cut 1/8" acrylic to fit outside the ports and inside the Balmar hatches like the screens, but as I said, I'm lazy. The shrink film is easy to try. Do it, its cheap, and if it works for you, do a better job.

Bill