Snaps or Turnbuckles?

[mnh]

My old cockpit enclosure with sheet type "isinglass" type see through panels has distorted to the point it longer fits the cockpit. it's about 10 years old.
So, we are going with a new enclosure that should be fastened down at the bottom end to help prevent future distortion. I have a teak cockpit rail that is pretty beefy. I can secure the new enclosure at it's bottom end with either snaps or turnbuckles. My question is what works better for the long term? And, does anyone have a better idea on how to keep the enclosure snug at it's bottom end?
Thanks in advance to all that reply. Much appreciated...
mnh

[thinwater]

^^ I presume you mean twist lock fasteners.

If you leave it in place, the fasteners generally keep it from shrinking. If you take it off it will shrink and you will need either snap stretchers or their equivalent.

[Mikado]

Originally Posted by mnh

My old cockpit enclosure with sheet type "isinglass" type see through panels has distorted to the point it longer fits the cockpit. it's about 10 years old.
So, we are going with a new enclosure that should be fastened down at the bottom end to help prevent future distortion. I have a teak cockpit rail that is pretty beefy. I can secure the new enclosure at it's bottom end with either snaps or turnbuckles. My question is what works better for the long term? And, does anyone have a better idea on how to keep the enclosure snug at it's bottom end?
Thanks in advance to all that reply. Much appreciated...
mnh

Both type of fasteners have their purpose. I would check with a canvas professional for some advice.

The twist style is called "Common Sense" and the snaps are called "Lift-The-Dot"

[Island Time O25]

I plan to add a see through isinglass enclosure for our home made hard top. Later on today I am meeting a canvas maker for an estimate and will ask his opinion in this.

While on the subject. The hard top is of such design that it can accommodate either a plexiglass/lexan windows or soft isinglass for the forward portion. I am getting conflicting advice with some advocating the hard glass while others are all for removable isinglass. I am still on the fence and hope to get some more input from the canvas maker when we meet. I don't do offshore sailing at this point (mostly day sails and short coastal hops) so the big water/waves over the deck is not a big issue (but still an issue). Would appreciate any input re: comparing longevity and appearance of either material, etc. To me longevity and lower maintenance (if those two can be reconciled) would be more important than the initial cost (withing reason of course). Thanks in advance for your input.

[Mikado]

Originally Posted by Island Time O25

I plan to add a see through isinglass enclosure for our home made hard top. Later on today I am meeting a canvas maker for an estimate and will ask his opinion in this.

While on the subject. The hard top is of such design that it can accommodate either a plexiglass/lexan windows or soft isinglass for the forward portion. I am getting conflicting advice with some advocating the hard glass while others are all for removable isinglass. I am still on the fence and hope to get some more input from the canvas maker when we meet. I don't do offshore sailing at this point (mostly day sails and short coastal hops) so the big water/waves over the deck is not a big issue (but still an issue). Would appreciate any input re: comparing longevity and appearance of either material, etc. To me longevity and lower maintenance (if those two can be reconciled) would be more important than the initial cost (withing reason of course). Thanks in advance for your input.

If you go with flexible (which I bet you do), make sure you request Strata-glass not Isinglass. Strata-glass is far more UV protected so it won't yellow, crack or haze nearly as fast as Isinglass.

Good luck with your project!

Jeff

[JPA Cate]

Island time, if you're going for a hard top, do consider installing an opening hatch in the top, for ventilation into the cockpit. If you can keep the Strata-glass in flat panels, that you can zip in and out (flaps for the zips, to protect the plastic teeth), Tenara thread for everything sewn, try and keep the height down, it will help with aesthetics, and you can have a great dodger. I would keep the bimini separate. I'm not a big fan of whole enclosures, partly because of the additional windage, but your dodger will want a clear flap with zips, for a downwind rain protector. It will keep waves and rain from going below.

A feature we installed on the aft edge of our dodger is two zips, with flaps. They are for zippping in the downwind rain protector, and for the cockpit awning. In addition, we made a 1/2 awning for underway, 'cause I really want shade.

Ours attaches to the cockpit coaming with a combination of hardware, some "Common Sense", some plain snaps (not Lift-the-Dot), and aft lashing. The parts that are made from marine hooding will eventually shrink as the plasticizers leach out. Imnsho, turnbuckles would be overkill, neither necessary nor desirable.

Ann

[UNCIVILIZED]

How about the various types of stud fasteners that are mounted on the boat/lower frame. With the corresponding fasteners in the canvas. For example the Lift-the-Dot cloth to surface fasteners Sailrite - Fabric, Canvas, and Sewing Machines Since 1969