Adding spring lines

[Caolan]

Hello all,

I have a sailboat built in 1962 and it only has fore and aft docking cleats. I would like to add spring lines to this but I have a toe rail on the edge of the side and the walking space is narrow. Is there a way to fake spring lines? My boat is a 1962 Chinook 34. Attached is a pic of the deck.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Caolan

Hello all,

I have a sailboat built in 1962 and it only has fore and aft docking cleats. I would like to add spring lines to this but I have a toe rail on the edge of the side and the walking space is narrow. Is there a way to fake spring lines? My boat is a 1962 Chinook 34. Attached is a pic of the deck. Attachment 165705

Bringing a second line back from the bow cleat is pretty common.

[Caolan]

Originally Posted by thinwater

Bringing a second line back from the bow cleat is pretty common.

Well I feel stupid. That is so obvious now that you point it out... :/

Thanks!

[Red Sky]

On my previous boat, that didn’t have mid-ship cleats, I installed sliding cleats that mount on the T-Track. They’re a bit pricey, but they do the job.

[Stu Jackson]

They make cleats that mount on the toe rail, too. While a second line from the bow will work once you're docked as a spring line, it won't help much in docking as we tend to use the term midship spring line. What I used to do on my C25 was use the jib sheet winch to the aft dock cleat. You might try that once to see if it works. Do it when you're already in your slip, run the line, disconnect fore and aft breast lines and idle in fwd gear. See if it works for you & your particular boat. It may. Haven't tried it on this boat, since I put cleats at the forward end of my jib fairlead tracks. I don't have a toe rail. Good luck.

[JPA Cate]

And, yet another option would be to make a gap in the toe rail, and install a cleat on a mounting block, through-bolted, with a backing plate, and into the inside, maybe use acorn nuts if it is exposed.

We installed a midships cleat on our 36, and were very glad to have it.

However, as thinwater suggests, you can add a line from bow cleat to aft dock cleat (stops being blown into the dock), and from stern to forward dock cleat (stops being blown out of the dock). It is quite useful where there is a large tidal swing, the springs keep you lined up with your fender board resting on the piling, if it is not a floating dock.

Ann

[roverhi]

With an 1 1/2” wide cap rail, put cleats on deck and chock on cap rail Amidship. Haven’t had problems banging toes on cleat but did place them as far outboard, close to cap rail as possible.

Using bow and stern cleats didn’t work without removing single cleat at bow and adding two cleats back on and could not lead spring line forward from the stern.

[Tillsbury]

Consider using the folding or pop-down cleats, as there is a distinct possibility that the position you choose for your midships cleat is precisely where the magnetic forces attract the jib sheets at the exact moment you *really* don't want it to happen...

[JPA Cate]

Interesting comment, Tillsbury. Also, I've seen two former tennis balls, with holes and with a bungee for tightness to pop over the horns of the cleats while sailing. Evidence, that it CAN be a problem, and there's a cheap solution.

Ann

[Ambler]

I would run a spring from the cockpit sheet winch to the middle cleat on your dock as well as the forward spring mentioned. A mid ship cleat on or about the tow rail when you only have two dock bollards to tie to is a good idea too.

[markpierce]

Midship cleats are handy, both for spring lines and initial docking. Every boat should have them. I've two on each beam.

[Orion Jim]

I have Spartan midship cleats as original hardware. Great stuff
https://www.spartanmarine.com/all-pr...mid-rail-chock