Anchoring and Windlass Abuse

[sailorchic34]

I deploy the anchor and rode by hand as my chain locker is too shallow to allow for dead fall for a windlass. I have a massive hardwood Sampson post. With support structure (beam) tabbed to the hulls and reinforced deck.

The sailorchic34 method of setting the hook, consists of dropping the hook with a bit less then 2 knots way still on, play out the rode,it's already wrapped around the sampson post at the right length (more being betterer) and let the boats 6 ish ton mass set the rode as the boat swings 180 degrees.

That gives me a hard set every time, while also testing the breaking strength of the rode that is mixed 5/16" BBB chain and 5/8" 8 plait. Never worry about it as the Bruce would pull out well under the working load of the rode. It never has yet. Done in 30 seconds with no mucking about. I know I'm weird.

[Kerry1]

Originally Posted by sailorchic34

I deploy the anchor and rode by hand as my chain locker is too shallow to allow for dead fall for a windlass. I have a massive hardwood Sampson post. With support structure (beam) tabbed to the hulls and reinforced deck.

The sailorchic34 method of setting the hook, consists of dropping the hook with a bit less then 2 knots way still on, play out the rode,it's already wrapped around the sampson post at the right length (more being betterer) and let the boats 6 ish ton mass set the rode as the boat swings 180 degrees.

That gives me a hard set every time, while also testing the breaking strength of the rode that is mixed 5/16" BBB chain and 5/8" 8 plait. Never worry about it as the Bruce would pull out well under the working load of the rode. It never has yet. Done in 30 seconds with no mucking about. I know I'm weird.

Not so weird. Actually just gave me an idea that I haven't tried before. Sometimes coming into an anchorage after dark, (in familiar waters) it's hard to judge just how far from other boats you are to keep a safe distance. I usually ease the boat up behind the last two boats in the bay and try to judge the distance between them so I fall back and outside their swing area. If I used your method I could motor around forward of them, then coming down through the middle of the two which may be (?) easier to judge as you come through, drop the pick just aft of them at "less then 2 knots way still on" and as you say use the forward momentum to dig in then swinging the 180 as she settles to the breeze or current. Sounds good.

[a64pilot]

Be wary of her method in a crowded anchorage, anchor doesn’t always set, and then your at the bow headed towards another boat.
Of course as with anything it just takes a little common sense is all to make it work fine.

[Kerry1]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Be wary of her method in a crowded anchorage, anchor doesn’t always set, and then your at the bow headed towards another boat.
Of course as with anything it just takes a little common sense is all to make it work fine.

Yes I hear you, which makes my variation perhaps a bit more appealing since I would motor down between the boats (coming back out of the bay heading into the open sea) and drop pick after just passing them. When (and if) the pick grabs, then swinging 180 back as she settles to the conditions. The other thing is that you can see what depth the others are in further in the bay, and whether if conditions turn the opposite way, whether you would have enough depth. Also gives you a closer look if possible to find a vacated position deeper into the bay among the others. Only thing I don't like is the idea that my chain rode will tend to come alongside and chafe the gelcoat as the anchor grabs while still moving forward. Hmmm.

[Mike OReilly]

Not trying to pick a fight here… I can see SC’s method being useful if anchoring under sail. But it does not provide much certainty as to how good the anchor is actually dug in. If you are already motoring, I see no advantage to this approach, other than perhaps speed of getting to the beers .

To me, anchoring involves three stages: (1) laying out anchor and rode, (2) setting, (3) then digging it in. An anchor only holds once it is dug in. Setting is just the first stage of this process. A properly dug in anchor will not easily pop out under wind or current loads. It will crab around as the wind and currents shift. If the anchor is only set, but not dug in, it can more easily pop out and start dragging. At that point all you’ve got is the re-setting capability of the anchor.

I much prefer to know the anchor is dug in by doing it in a controlled manner.