Can/Should this anchor be rehabbed?

[BigNut]

Originally Posted by Compass790

Yes it's repairable & regalvanizable, would need to be sandblasted first for good galvanizing. Looks like it's got lead in the tip so that has to be dealt with.

Hmmmm, didn’t figure that into the equation. Are you sure that’s lead? Can’t seem to find any spec that describes the weight.

[BigNut]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

I say it’s time to retire it and buy a nice new one from the famous CF list of good ones. Don’t regalvanize in Panama.

OK. Where is this list? From what you said earlier, it must be pretty short! [emoji12][emoji12][emoji12]

Where would you regalvanize in Central America / Caribbean?

[BigNut]

Originally Posted by Compass790

Not too many anchors break but many drag.

Ha! [emoji106]🤛

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by BigNut

Hmmmm, didn’t figure that into the equation. Are you sure that’s lead? Can’t seem to find any spec that describes the weight.

No I'm not sure it's lead, just a guess as some plough types do have lead in the tips. Just try & gouge it to see if it is.

If the hot dip galvanizer says it doesn't need blasting he doesnt know what he is doing.

[BigNut]

Originally Posted by Compass790

No I'm not sure it's lead, just a guess as some plough types do have lead in the tips. Just try & gouge it to see if it is.

Er. Ma. ... er, Goodness. [emoji85] Sometimes, I scare myself.

Yes, I checked it now. No, it’s not. At least, not obviously so.
Thanks for being kind! [emoji120][emoji854]

[Mickeyrouse]

There is no unanimity on anchors, but you see the name”Fortress” coming up a lot. I swear by mine, with the added advantage that it is strong and light for comparable holding power, and a spare can be carried disassembled, a big plus on any boat. Plus, they offer a lifetime guarantee on parts. Worth it, because the crown on mine has been dock-banged a couple times.

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by BigNut

OK. Where is this list? From what you said earlier, it must be pretty short! [emoji12][emoji12][emoji12]

Where would you regalvanize in Central America / Caribbean?

Just give it a light sand and paint it in yellow and silver so it looks like a posh new generation type.

Pete

[David Mathis]

These cheap Danforth type anchors of the size shown commonly sell for $100.00 or less. It isn't worth straightening. Recycle it and get a new one, preferably one of higher quality that is less likely to bend. The one pictured is far too big to practically use as a dingy anchor which should be of the 2 1/2 to 6 pound variety.

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by waterman46

Stern anchors are really an accessory used to position the boat at some desired angle, and not supposed to be the one to save your boat on a lee shore. Straighten and use it temporarily but junk it and plunk down the money for a Fortress stern anchor whenever you anticipate needing a stern anchor more.

What he said.

Take it to an auto repair or machine shop with a press and it can be straightened easily in five minutes.

We keep a 35# Danforth knockoff for kedging the the stern around in a rolling anchorage or where it’s desirable to drag the stern toward shore. On the beach we drop it around a big rock. In sand or much and plenty of scope it holds well.

[Shaneesprit]

Weigh it in at the metal recycling and buy a new one, the question is not even worth asking, if money is tight buy a second hand one, lots of boat owners have old anchors they don’t use so they are quite cheap unless you want a specific model.
That reminds me - must put my anchor on Ebay

[Icarus]

Originally Posted by BigNut

Came with the boat, set up as astern/kedge. Not sure if it is worth attempting to straighten it. Would that weaken it?

Attachment 222372

Attachment 222373

Thanks for your input.

Bin it, 50 bucks buys you a new one.

[BigNut]

Thanks for all the replies, everybody.
This marvel of technology now graces a nice coral garden, under a mango tree.

[Woodland Hills]

If I wanted to use it I would cold straighten it in a hydraulic press to avoid altering the temper of the metal. I would then crack test it using dye penetrant or magnaflux if it is available.