How do I mark anchor chain?

[sheldon957]

[QUOTE=Maka;2637487]

Originally Posted by thinwater

Paint is by far the BEST ...and easy to read.


The hard part is finding tiny guys like this to paint it for you,

You are killing me Maka! Made me laugh! Thanks!

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by mannix2

For you zip tie fans, what marking method do you recommend for the line/rope attached to the chain? Paint?

Zip ties through, and then around, the rope, too.

-Chris

[Capt Jeff]

I encourage everyone to begin (or return to) using paint. We all must become more and more aware of the epidemic of plastic in the oceans. Plastic tie wraps are all well and good but they break off and become part of a larger problem. If we don't start with the small things, the larger things can't possibly get better.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by nhschneider

We ‘weave’ a 3’ length of 1/4” polypropylene rope through the chain every 50’. It goes through our windlass without any problems and the length of the marking helps make it easier to spot in low light or if the chain is running fast.

This.
Tried all methods mentioned and this is by far the best
Simple, cheap, works.


We anchor out 365 days a year.

[fxykty]

Originally Posted by RichandHelen

How do you secure it to the chain?

You don’t need to do anything special to secure the line - weaving through 8-12 links holds the line in place. Whenever you see the line hanging further out of the links just tuck the loose end back through. We’ve put figure 8 knots at each end and that seems to keep them in place better.

We have an all-chain 1/2 inch rode and we mark it every 10 m with 1 m long 3 mm 1/8 inch cord. We started with different colours but they all turn muck coloured after a while, so now we sometimes loose track and wonder whether we have 30 m or 40 m of chain out. We tried adding different numbers of zip ties at each marker, but the tails of the zip ties break off quite quickly. We’re now going to try cow hitching short lengths of the same cord next to each marker line with the hope that those will stay in place better.

Another vote to not painting. If you’re planning to keep your boat for an extended period of time you will be regalvinising at some point. Painted chain will leave rust (aka weak) spots as it will likely not regalvinise properly at the paint. But if you’re planning to sell within a couple years then go ahead and paint your chain and leave the problem to the next owner.

[Cheechako]

Tried zip ties, they disappeared fast due to the wildcat. Also, if you ever have to handle the chain with your hands ... watch out! Tried those plastic West Marine markers, they are a joke.
paint inhibiting galvanising? You do realize galvanising is done at 800-900 degrees F right? and good Galvanising has a pre clean alkaline solution, acidic solution, or solvent clean. However few people do it anymore as it's often poorly done, expensive and trouble prone.

[Uplander]

Mark every 10 metres. We use paint - one splurge at 10m, 2 at 20m ........... and a large one near the end. Works a treat.

[croesner]

For chain - these are the deal!

https://www.westmarine.com/search?Nt...+chain+markers

[sand6000]

Originally Posted by skipmac

If you ever intend to regalvanize the chain (maybe a possibility soon since you say it's lightly corroded already) do NOT paint it. Paint will block the galvanizing and has to be totally and completely removed before the process. I got a great deal on some lightly corroded chain and spent 5-6 hours with a sandblaster and still didn't get all the paint off.

Most galvanising operations use a caustic and/or acid bath prior to galvanising. This totally removes all old paint.

[billgewater]

You may have noticed two things. The first one is that painting has its problems. The re-galvanizing one being a really serious issue. I would suggest you ask your local galvanizers just how serious (cost wise) this issue is as chain availability and prices vary considerably. If you swap the chain around end to end to extend its life, the painting can be problematic. It can be very difficult to remove.
The second observation is that nearly all the respondents have a different interpretation or meaning for the markers. If the code is complex, the person raising or lowering the anchor may not comprehend what the marks actually mean. Obviously this depends on familiarity with the code.
On my primary chain I have only one marker near the end which is a tag reading "Stop".
There is a bit of a general rule with anchoring depth/chain use; something along the lines of three times the water depth in calm conditions. So the important thing is to ascertain when the anchor hits the bottom, or knowledge of the sounded depth. Ensuring the anchor has bitten is also essential. Make sure the chain does not all drop onto the anchor.
There are probably other important chain issues you should consider such as appropriate swivels. Wire tie locks on shackles, synthetic rollers to reduce abrasion of the chain, ability to wash the upcoming chain and preferably rinse with fresh water and good chain fall to a well drained chain locker, a chain pawl to lock off a released chain and finally a very secure means of chain attachment so it does not all go over the bow - yes I saw this actually happen many years ago. Many sailors also have a rescue line attached to their anchor head with a float. If the anchor snags, then it can be pulled out and up using this rope. It also shows you just where the anchor is. On my tub I have two of these, one is at about boat length and the other is at about 30 m (for anchoring in really deep water - but I have never used it). Another minor issue is some means of securing the chain so that if at a violent anchoring, when security is essential, that the chain cannot come off the bow roller. Many boats have really deep cheeks and/or two holes to allow a tie rope or wire to go over the chain and retain it on the roller.
A recent respondent talked about water entering through the chain hawser deck hole. You really need to check this one out on your boat. The problem is simple but the solutions are varied.

[Opie91]

Different color ribbons (cloth). Works great runs thru the windlass fine and lasts at least a whole season. Nice and inexpensive too.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by Uplander

Mark every 10 metres. We use paint - one splurge at 10m, 2 at 20m ........... and a large one near the end. Works a treat.

I'm guessing people who use paint don't anchor much.

Ours was gone in a few weeks, dragging through sand is very abrasive.

Cheap poly rope has been in for two years and will be there for two more.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by sand6000

Most galvanising operations use a caustic and/or acid bath prior to galvanising. This totally removes all old paint.

Not according to the galvanisers we got quotes from.
They all acid wash but paint has to be sandblasted off.

[thinwater]

[QUOTE=sheldon957;2637575]

Originally Posted by Maka

You are killing me Maka! Made me laugh! Thanks!

I was hoping someone would comment. The "little guys" got me!


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Yes, I anchor a lot. It depends on the bottom--mostly mud here, but some sand. It may depend on how much your boat yaws. The paint on the outside wears off, but not between the links. It seems to last several hundred days. Finally, the ones that wear (the ones on the bottom) don't really matter! It is the marks closer to the boat that matter, and they arn't on the bottom. Re-painting with box trick is ridiculously easy.


Some windlasses and gypsies will jam on ties or rope. Just something you need to try. My windlass hates them all.


I'm in the "don't mark it too often" school. One near the end, and then every 50' is enough.

[Robert E]

Originally Posted by jsc7

I have your typical lightly corroded anchor chain and it has no markings so it is impossible to tell how much chain has been payed out.

How can I mark the chain so I know every 10 feet or whatever?

Our strategy for making anchor chain is simple. Spray paint one link at 25', 2 at 50', 3 at 75', 4 at 100' and repeat. Easy to remember and easy to repaint as needed. Best, Bob and Jan