Taming Foresail Sheets when Single Handing

[Andrew G]

Nigel,
In addition to the other contributions (removing friction, angle of lead for furling line etc) may I offer the following:
1) It is the first few meters of the furl that is the hardest - check the condition, diameter and length of your furling line so that you have as much diameter rolled on to the furl drum that you can (eg even if you have heaps left on the drum when you finish furling) this maximises the diameter of your pull. But, make sure you do not have so much that it bunches up and fouls the furler nor that the line passes between previous layers and gets wedged (I can now disassemble and reassemble my furler with zero sleep, in the dark whilst dipping the bow passing through coral reefs etc . . .).
2) It is important that, every time you unfurl the sail (you never know what the conditions will be when you want to furl it next), you lay down neat layers on the drum (this helps prevent the above problems) - you do this by applying a little resistance to the furl line as it pays out and keep its speed consistent - do not let it run free, especially as the sail is nearly unfurled (and you are impatient to get going).

Cheers, Andrew

[nigel1]

Thanks Andrew.
I've already covered those bases I think. With the genoa fully unfurled, the drum is just about full, that leaves me with about 6 turns on the drum with the sail furled. I have another reason to keep extra turns on the drum as I have a staysail. If using the staysail with the genoa furled, I can take wrap the genoa sheets around and have them closer to deck levelk, and out of the way of the staysail.
I'm always carefull about keeping some tension on the furler line when setting the sail. I take a couple of turns of furling line around a secondary winch, and then haul the sheet just enough to get the sail to start unrolling itself, then ease it out on the furling line a few feet, lock it off, tension the sheet, then ease again the furling line a few feet etc.
Taking the furling line out of the guide has made a huge difference. I now need to fabricate some stainless bar, bend it to the radius of the original guides, then fit these bars to the port side of the furler drum. I spoke to the UK supplier of Facnor furlers and they say that they have done this in the past. I'm still surprised that Beneteau managed to fit the furlers the wronmg way round in the first place

[Andrew G]

Well done - Andrew.

[nigel1]

Another update:
Regarding the furler being orientated wrong, I'm going to have the UV strip renewed, but will place on the other side of the sail. The furling line will now be able to go onto the drum without lying against the furler guide.
As svHyLyte suggested, slacking the halyard about 3 inches has helped alot.
And will be removing the staysail furler and replacing the bearings. After about 2 months of pestering Facnor with emails they finally gave in and sent me a drawing of the furler showing the arrangement of seals, bearings and circlips.
Look to be stainless steel sealed bearings, so should be fun trying to get out of the aluminium furler

[MarkSF]

Originally Posted by Andrew G

2) It is important that, every time you unfurl the sail (you never know what the conditions will be when you want to furl it next), you lay down neat layers on the drum (this helps prevent the above problems) - you do this by applying a little resistance to the furl line as it pays out and keep its speed consistent - do not let it run free, especially as the sail is nearly unfurled (and you are impatient to get going).

Cheers, Andrew

There is a Harken ratchet block that does this for you. I added one to my furler last year. The furler works much more smoothly as a result.

I placed the block at the aft end of the cockpit so the furler line does a 180 degree turn around it then goes back to the cleat.

Very simple to add as it clamps on to the stern rail.

[Matt Johnson]

Originally Posted by MarkSF

There is a Harken ratchet block that does this for you. I added one to my furler last year. The furler works much more smoothly as a result.

I placed the block at the aft end of the cockpit so the furler line does a 180 degree turn around it then goes back to the cleat.

Very simple to add as it clamps on to the stern rail.

Same as I have on my Harken furler.... this really does help a ton. It's just enough pressure that the line goes smoothly around the drum.

At first, I fit the block backwards and couldn't figure why it was so hard to pull in

[Andrew G]

Mark and FJ,
Do you have any details on your ratchet blocks (eg part no/size/? or WWW link). The ratchet blocks I'm used to would be too "jerky" (ie off or on) but what you describe would be great. Thanks, Andrew

[MarkSF]

Originally Posted by Andrew G

Mark and FJ,
Do you have any details on your ratchet blocks (eg part no/size/? or WWW link). The ratchet blocks I'm used to would be too "jerky" (ie off or on) but what you describe would be great. Thanks, Andrew

This is the one I used :

Harken 57 mm Carbo Ratchet Block

Just to be clear : the ratchet is locked when easing the furling line, but the spool has indentations that cause a controlled amount of friction in the line.

[Andrew G]

Thanks Mark. Your clarification is well made. I was hoping for a controlled release of the sheave but as you have operational experience that the friction through the locked sheave works - that is a good solution. Thanks again, Andrew.

[nigel1]

Here's the drawings of the Facnor SD Furler drum and swivel, may be of use to others.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by savoir

Put the lazy sheet around a winch - 2 turns unless it is light air. Ease the jibsheet in use by less than you were used to before going to the furler, enough to have the front half of the jib luffing and the back half drawing. After turning the roller a few times you may need to ease the sheet a little more. Be sure that there is drag on the lazy sheet the whole time.

yep

[Matt Johnson]

Make sure you control those sheets. My wife blew the line from the winch before I could get the furled line in. In the chaos, the sheet blew out two of my dodger windows.... not fun!

[daddle]

The ratchet block is a good thing. However one must rig it so the line turns around the sheave as much as possible. A quarter turn probably won't allow proper function. A half turn will. I had to rig two blocks to get enough bite on the one with the ratchet.