installing my force 10 range

[Chinook92]

So. I gotta admit a few things. im a marine mechanic, been working on boats for near 15 years professionally, however... my duties are always in the engine room, and now that I have a sailboat, im kinda new when it comes to some stuff, like installing a propane system, and stoves, and galley stuff...


so,


I picked up a Force 10 60300 which is an older 3 burner range/cooktop/oven, and I have tanks, and ive picked out a solenoid, but I need to carve up my galley a little to get it to fit... but, that's where it gets a little fuzzy, I don't really know about clearances, height, sides, and haven't been able to find any info, but ive contacted the manufacture hoping to get some paperwork for this thing....

its a gimbaled stove, but I don't have anything as far as an enclosure, can I just bolt this thing up? or do I need an inch or two with a heat shield on either side?


input?

probably overkill for a Catalina 27, but whatever, the price was right (found this thing behind the dumpster at the marina, its totally clean, works, well taken care of, just dated and needs a thermocouple, somebody probably pitched it just cuz they wanted something newer). wasn't planning on propane, but, I also live with a high end chef, so, I definitely wont complain about good food out on the water. I scored the boat for 1000$, and have already ripped out all the bulkheads, replaced everything with new aquashield 7 ply 1/2 inch mahongany marine ply, redid the chainplates, doing all sorts of awesome stuff....

debating busting into doing all the deck hardware next or installing and re-doing the galley... just thought id see others install experiances

[James S]

From force tens manual...

https://www.marlow-hunter.com/wp-con...In%20Stove.pdf

2. Do not locate cabinet storage units or any combustible surfaces at any point directly above the stove.
3. Force 10 recommends a 30” (75 cm) clearance between the stove top and any unprotected combustible cabin top or bulkhead. This clearance may be reduced to a 20” (50cm) minimum if the overhead combustible surface is shielded with at least 1/4” (6mm) thick flame-retardant millboard topped with not less than No. 28 MSG sheet steel, 0.015” thick stainless steel, 0.024” thick aluminum, or 0.020” thick copper.

An operational note... when done cooking we turn off the gas at the bottle and solenoid valve... and then let the flame die out on its own.. burns all the gas in the line...

[Chinook92]

Thanks for that.

Very interesting... Doesn't require any heat shields around the sides or behind... Doesn't even mention safety clearances from walls and sides and stuff, only a height clearance

Wonder if that means I can just bolt it up or if it would be prudent to build something anyway

[SVTatia]

Originally Posted by Chinook92

...
I picked up a Force 10 60300 which is an older 3 burner range/cooktop/oven, and I have tanks, and ive picked out a solenoid, but I need to carve up my galley a little to get it to fit... but, that's where it gets a little fuzzy, I don't really know about clearances, height, sides, and haven't been able to find any info, but ive contacted the manufacture hoping to get some paperwork for this thing....
...

I’m in the process of installing my 3-burner Force 10 as well. Actually it is not a process, more like a project. I have the enclosure and it is 2 inches from the stove sides. I tested the stove and oven and the sides did not get that hot with the oven at 400F.

I bought the stove second-hand and in working condition, but I took everything apart cleaned and reinstalled. I found the broiler totally rusted but serviceable, I cleaned it up, protected with paint and reinstalled.

The challenge is placement for the tank - I decided to place mine on the stern railing and I put together the solenoid, pressure gauge and pressure regulator will build a PVC box to house them.

Since you are fixing the boat you can build an enclosure using ¾ ply on 3 sides – the measurements and installation guide is downloadable.
There is a lot of info on best practices and ABYC recommendations on the web, but the basic install is to have only 1 connection from the gas line at the tank to the stove. You’ll also need some wiring to place propane alarms under the stove.

Because you “found it” and do not know the current workings, one thing you definitely need to do is test the stove on a well-ventilated place preferably outdoors, before you put it on board - do that once you have the pressure gauge and regulator, and do a test/check on all burners, broiler, ignition and thermocouples. Good luck and let us now how it goes.

[boatpoker]

Check out Safe Boat Propane Installations then PM me with an email address and I'll send you the ABYC Standards

[CHRIS V CLEMENT]

On my Gulfstar 41, I removed the gimbaled Force 10 and installed a portable $100 ice maker from Walmart in its place. Ice makers last about 5 - 10 years, then one pitches it and gets a new one.

My wife is an excellent chef. She picked out a convection microwave and a large oval crock pot. The convection microwave can even bake cookies.
The crock pot makes the entire yacht smell wonderful.

The weight of the Force 10 is 83 pounds.
The weight of the added Northern Lights 5kw generator is 371 pounds.
It burns 1/2 gal of diesel per hour, even with the A/C running.

We have both been very happy with the transition for over 10 years.

Removing the propane system helps us both sleep better at night.

Keep in mind that we do mostly coastal cruising.

Good luck and good sailing...

[Attikos]

For what it's worth, Sequoyah's Force 10 was factory installed with about 2" clearance at the back (more for swinging on the gimbals than heat safety, I suspect) and 1" at the sides.

[keithw88]

Has anyone else been told that leaving the burners on to burn off the gas in the supply - line is a bad idea - because when you re-light the burner, you have a mixture of air (containing oxygen) and gas which could be explosive?

[JD-MDR]

here is a photo of mine. I tossed the fuel lines because there was too many connections and I don't have a tank yet. I will hook it up soon. but you can see how it was originally installed and the carbon monoxide alarm underneath . It need to be replaced also. The butcher block cover comes off to use the stove top[

[JPA Cate]

Hello, Chinook92.

I see the problem, small boat, every inch counts a lot, and..... Fwiw, we just installed a new Force 10 3 burner. It really fills our stove cutout more than I would like, and ours has heat shielding, too, fore, aft, and outboard. If your fridge is right next to it, I think that side is REALLY important. It is that, whoever has charge of keeping it clean would really like to be able to get cleaning things to the sides of the stove! If you really have carte blanche, do yourself a favor, and make it possible to clean all around it. And, touching wood, it is working ever so much than our old one, something for which I am really grateful!

Good luck with the project!

Ann

[James S]

Originally Posted by keithw88

Has anyone else been told that leaving the burners on to burn off the gas in the supply - line is a bad idea - because when you re-light the burner, you have a mixture of air (containing oxygen) and gas which could be explosive?

I haven't heard that... its been our practice for some time and as yet no problem... but something to do some research into...

[boatpoker]

That's a pretty silly idea since propane will not ignite at all without oxygen.

[Suijin]

Originally Posted by keithw88

Has anyone else been told that leaving the burners on to burn off the gas in the supply - line is a bad idea - because when you re-light the burner, you have a mixture of air (containing oxygen) and gas which could be explosive?

Meaning that if flame got into the hose it might explode/combust. I think the chances of this are lower than having your brains eaten by aliens. If it really bothers you just purge the line of air (which is effectively what you do when you are trying to light the burner after purging the gas).

FWIW emptying the line each time is not necessary. If ALL the propane in it leaked into the boat it would not be a hazard. It’s concentration would be too low.

[Suijin]

As for installing a new stove just check the geometry of its swing clearance (including a pot on a back burner) to figure out where to place the gimbals. I had to change mine when I bought a new F10 to replace the original stove.

My stove has no insulation or shielding surrounding it on the back and sides, even above it (vertically) at the back. The only shielding is a stainless sheet directly above it on the underside of the side deck. No problem.

[James S]

Originally Posted by Suijin

FWIW emptying the line each time is not necessary. If ALL the propane in it leaked into the boat it would not be a hazard. It’s concentration would be too low.

With all due respect I would disagree... since the gas does not mix with the air in the boat.. it may accumulate in low areas like the bilge of other "pockets" and its volume will depend on the dia. and length of the hose.. and can't say for sure that the volume would not be enough to start a fire.. but its not just that volume... each time the gas is used you will add to that volume.. and that has the potential for a great deal of accumulation..
Understanding that this is assuming a leak in the stove of line..