Need suggestions on split freezer/fridge

[Ryban]

When we bought our boat it had an integrated top-loading fridge that's about 4 cubic feet. It's stainless lined, and has about 3" of foam on the sides, and 4" on the top and lids (as far as I can determine). The area had been used as an ice box prior to us buying the boat, so no compressor or evaporator plate was installed (but one was installed at some point as there are holes for the lines).

Now that we're outfitting the boat for long term cruising we're getting ready to turn it back into a fridge, and ideally, a split fridge/freezer of a "spill over" design. In this config, the evaporator plate is installed in the freezer compartment, and a small CPU fan or similar is used to force air into the fridge volume as-needed (based on a separate thermostat).

Most of these configurations call for 2" of foam to divide the compartments. However, our fridge is stainless lined, and though stainless steel has a relatively low thermal conductivity, it's still a good bit higher than if it were a fiberglass fridge. So I'm not actually sure how feasible a split design is on a stainless lined fridge.

Assuming it is feasible, I drew out a few configurations that are possible with the size of evaporator plates available, and that won't make accessing the contents of either the "fridge" or "freezer" absolutely a chore.

My questions are:

• Will a spill over design even work with a stainless lined fridge compartment?
• If so, which of the two options in the attached figure seem better to you?

The other option is to get a "loop shaped" evaporator plate, and turned the inside volume of that into a tiny freezer.

[Tupaia]

Given the overall shape it will be difficult to divide into a split unit. Cold air falls so the plate needs to be as close to the top as possible and I can't see how you can do this, split it and provide an even distribution of temperature. Turn it into a fridge or a freezer but wouldn't try to split it.

[Toccata]

FWIW. I had the same situation.
Having decided to remove the fridge/freezer stainless lining I found about 50 litres of water in and around the old insulation.
My supposition was that the SS lining and relatively old/poor insulation allowed/caused condensation on the outside of the lining. Fortunately the surrounding plywood had been well treated with epoxy resin.
My suggestion is; remove the whole lot and start again.

[Ryban]

Originally Posted by Toccata

FWIW. I had the same situation.
Having decided to remove the fridge/freezer stainless lining I found about 50 litres of water in and around the old insulation.
My supposition was that the SS lining and relatively old/poor insulation allowed/caused condensation on the outside of the lining. Fortunately the surrounding plywood had been well treated with epoxy resin.
My suggestion is; remove the whole lot and start again.

That's wild. I had not considered that as a possible issue at all.

I wonder if there's a relatively non-destructive way to investigate the state of the foam insulation -- perhaps drilling a number of inspection holes? Ripping everything out would be a major project, and rather unfortunate if what we have is in perfectly good shape.

[rslifkin]

4 cubic feet isn't a huge space. If you can manage it, I'd make that a dedicated fridge and put in a small separate freezer somewhere.

[Bowdrie]

A stainless liner was never used in a factory W32.
That said, see if you can find one of those "U" shaped evaporators that have the little door on the front, it can be mounted hanging from the overhead of the box outboard of the hatches.
Adler-Barbour used to have them along with a few other makes/models.
Or, look at the evaporator in the pic I'm posting.
If you can find one of those that will fit you're in good shape, they were made of stainless, and a good tech can easily hook one up to a modern 12V condensing unit, though he may have to change the cap-tube size.
Old refrigerators are a dime a dozen, a little detective work might yield a nice evaporator.

[Ryban]

Yeah that's also a good idea and is an option I'm considering for a few ice cube trays and the occasional fish. Some of the DIY Isotherm kits come with U/loop shaped evaporators that could be easily setup in such a way.

This wasn't a factory finished W32 -- it was actually the last P&M hull that was built after they bought the molds from Westsail, and delivered as a kit I believe to the PO. There are lots of non-factory goodies inside the boat .

[Bowdrie]

Marine refrigeration for small boats, (IMHO,) has devolved.
When "Dole Refrigeration" quit making the small sized holding plates, and "Standard Refrigeration" quit making those evaporators such as I pictured a lot of options for effective/efficient DIY refrigeration disappeared.
Now we're pretty much stuck with the "one-size-fits-all" little 12V units and the somewhat miserable stamped aluminum evaporators that are all too willing to develop leaks.

[Madehn]

You might think about making your existing box into a fridge only then perhaps add something like a “Luna” brand fridge freezer combo type cooler. I added a split model freezer / fridge/ freezer dual compartment 12/24 volt for around 1300 dollars. I also rebuilt both my top load fridge and top load freezer on the boat. Amp draw on the fridge and freezer are both about 5 amps each with a 50 percent duty cycle. Amp draw for the Luna unit is about 3 amps with a similar cycle. I can recommend trchnautics cool blue ( cruiser owned ) for sourcing your cold plate and compressor unit. They were super helpful. Best of luck. From having done this project it is both harder than you probably think in some areas and easier in others. If you have questions feel free to post or pm me.

[Scubaseas]

4 cu ft is pretty small to do what you describe. Suggest just getting a unit that has a medium ice box. Yoi can separate the box internally later with 2" of foam board if you want more freezer space. Or make it all freezer and get a small separate fridge. I just redid my icebox and was happy with Webasto smart systems.

https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/u...nergy-control/

[Svzamae]

I had the same experience as Toccata with the additional horror that it was a haven for cockroaches!! My solution was to cut it all out and install a branded car fridge. So many on the market now and so cheap and so efficient. I run a 50 litre unit at minus 12°c as a freezer. Other than a bit of sweating around the lid seal during humid weather, it's perfect and has a 5 year warranty as well!!

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by Svzamae

My solution was to cut it all out and install a branded car fridge. So many on the market now and so cheap and so efficient.

Our solution as well. We previously had a Waeco CF18. Brilliant little fridge or freezer and regret selling it. Frozen my sandwiches solid the first time I used it and got the settings wrong.

We now have a Apicool 20L which will double as either a fridge or freezer. We run it at -15c rather than the recommended -18 to 20c for a freezer which helps cut the run time down. Adding a bath towel over the top less the grills causes condensation between the freezer and the towel suggesting that the outside of the freezer is indeed quite cold under the towel helping to conserve electrical power.

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...er-228072.html

[mikeo16]

Speak to Cleave at Seafrost. He will guide you through the options and make up any custom shape or size at reasonable cost. He did our spillover and works great. Recommend going with the digital thermostat which gives you complete flexibility to all settings. Their thin plates are stainless and would look nice with your stainless liner.

[Jimmyhenry]

I agree with Tocata. Remove it all and start again. Design exactly what you want. You will be thrilled with the result
We did this. Ended up with a powerful freezer which means we can quickly freeze excess fish as we go. Produces heaps of ice for drinks. And a controllable separate fridge. Both top loaders.
Last cruise was 6 months. Frozen meat for the whole trip.
Pete

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by mikeo16

Their thin plates are stainless and would look nice with your stainless liner.

Should the OP decide to re-do the whole works the decision whether or not to keep the stainless liner might be influenced by how long he wants to keep the boat.
Over the long term a fiberglass liner is far and away superior to a metal box.
Metal boxes have so many disadvantages it's hard to list them all.
They're from the time of putting a 100lbs of ice in them for a few days of cold beer, (and before fiberglass was invented).