Testing of Ikea dual induction hob

[BjarneK]

I just bought this portable dual induction hob from Ikea: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/tillred...white-90497166

I thought it might be useful for others to see my test results, so here they are.

The two zones are different in that one is 2,000 W nominal and the other 1,200 W. It is a fairly inexpensive appliance.

I did some testing of the power consumption at various settings. The measurements were done with a cheap kill-a-watt style measurement device, but probably quite accurate. The input voltage was 50 Hz, between 220 V and 230 V (the voltage decreased at high power, probably just due to voltage drop in the cables leading to the appliance).

• When powered off, the consumption is 0.2 W.

The following numbers are the setting, then nominal power, followed by measured power and comments.

First the low power zone:

• 1: 100 W, 640 W, cycling on and off approx. every 22 seconds
• 2: 300 W, 650 W, cycling on and off approx. every 13 seconds
• 3: 500 W, 650 W, cycling on off off approx. every 11 seconds
• 4: 700 W, 650 W, constant
• 5: 800 W, 710 W, constant
• 6: 900 W, 810 W, constant
• 7: 1,000 W, 920 W, constant
• 8: 1,100 W, 1,010 W, constant
• 9: 1,200 W, 1,120 W, constant

The high power zone:

• 1: 150 W, 860 W, cycling on and off approx. every 19 seconds
• 2: 300 W, 860 W, cycling on and off approx. every 9 seconds
• 3: 600 W, 860 W, cycling on off off approx. every 9 seconds
• 4: 900 W, 1,140 W, cycling on off off approx. every 8 seconds
• 5: 1,100 W, 1,050 W, constant
• 6: 1,300 W, 1,250 W, constant
• 7: 1,500 W, 1,470 W, constant
• 8: 1,700 W, 1,660 W, constant
• 9: 2,000 W, 1,880 W, constant

The power factor varies from 93 % on the low settings to 98 % on the high settings.

There is a fan making some noise the entire time the appliance is providing power to the zones and a bit after, presumably to cool down. It is possible to hear the zones starting and stopping. When both zones are on, there is a high pitched noise, which is a bit annoying. The fan can shift to a higher speed on the high settings.

Setting both zones to maximum, the measured consumption was 2,790 W rather than the expected 3,000 W. This may just be the measuring device not being linear at high current (it is only rated for 2,300 W). In any case it does not seem that the power is reduced much, if at all, when both zones are active.

The appliance measures 52 cm x 28 cm x 6.2 cm which seem to be a nice size for a boat: it is big enough for two decent sized pots or pans, but not too big. The zones are meant to be oriented so one is behind the other, but turning it so the zones are side by side should be fine.

[rgleason]

@BjarneK Thanks, also Pete, jedi, sens Very informative. About induction hob operation and inverter capacity. Thanks for the recommendations. The temptation to get rid of propane is strong, but best to happen in steps, I think.
Power sources:
300w solar x 5hr=1500w=125ah
100ah Alt x 1.5hr in and out of harbor cruising= 150ah, maybe a bit less.
Total 225ah daily.
That might work with induction.
There are some other losses to inverter and hob.
Cruising we use about 100ah/day
At sea its more like 150ah/day both without induction cooking.

[bensolomon]

I am installing a xantrex 3000 watt inverter/charger just so I can use induction cooking and a water boiling pot for coffee. I have one Panasonic 350 Watt panel and two house batt bank for a total of 250 amp hours. I have very little power consumption, as a rule. The fridge being the biggest draw at 50 aH per day. I'm usually topped up by 2 or 3 pm from solar.

These posts are very helpful. Thank you. I have a single burner induction hob, and a CNG stove. I also have a small grill on the stern.

Thanks again,
Ben

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by BjarneK

I just bought this portable dual induction hob from Ikea: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/tillred...white-90497166

I thought it might be useful for others to see my test results, so here they are.

The two zones are different in that one is 2,000 W nominal and the other 1,200 W. It is a fairly inexpensive appliance.

I did some testing of the power consumption at various settings. The measurements were done with a cheap kill-a-watt style measurement device, but probably quite accurate. The input voltage was 50 Hz, between 220 V and 230 V (the voltage decreased at high power, probably just due to voltage drop in the cables leading to the appliance).

• When powered off, the consumption is 0.2 W.

The following numbers are the setting, then nominal power, followed by measured power and comments.

First the low power zone:

• 1: 100 W, 640 W, cycling on and off approx. every 22 seconds
• 2: 300 W, 650 W, cycling on and off approx. every 13 seconds
• 3: 500 W, 650 W, cycling on off off approx. every 11 seconds
• 4: 700 W, 650 W, constant
• 5: 800 W, 710 W, constant
• 6: 900 W, 810 W, constant
• 7: 1,000 W, 920 W, constant
• 8: 1,100 W, 1,010 W, constant
• 9: 1,200 W, 1,120 W, constant

The high power zone:

• 1: 150 W, 860 W, cycling on and off approx. every 19 seconds
• 2: 300 W, 860 W, cycling on and off approx. every 9 seconds
• 3: 600 W, 860 W, cycling on off off approx. every 9 seconds
• 4: 900 W, 1,140 W, cycling on off off approx. every 8 seconds
• 5: 1,100 W, 1,050 W, constant
• 6: 1,300 W, 1,250 W, constant
• 7: 1,500 W, 1,470 W, constant
• 8: 1,700 W, 1,660 W, constant
• 9: 2,000 W, 1,880 W, constant

The power factor varies from 93 % on the low settings to 98 % on the high settings.

There is a fan making some noise the entire time the appliance is providing power to the zones and a bit after, presumably to cool down. It is possible to hear the zones starting and stopping. When both zones are on, there is a high pitched noise, which is a bit annoying. The fan can shift to a higher speed on the high settings.

Setting both zones to maximum, the measured consumption was 2,790 W rather than the expected 3,000 W. This may just be the measuring device not being linear at high current (it is only rated for 2,300 W). In any case it does not seem that the power is reduced much, if at all, when both zones are active.

The appliance measures 52 cm x 28 cm x 6.2 cm which seem to be a nice size for a boat: it is big enough for two decent sized pots or pans, but not too big. The zones are meant to be oriented so one is behind the other, but turning it so the zones are side by side should be fine.

You need to also measure the amp draw from the inverter at each level too as there is an additional phantom load due to induction shifting the phase ( so called cos pi) and inverter needs additional energy to correct that. Add 10-15% on top what you measured.
So I am quite sure total load is 3kw or slightly above. That pulsing is very bad for FETs in cheap HF inverters, shortens live drastically.
That’s the typical pattern for low quality induction burners, but of the better kind as it used reduced power levels. Also they typically have hotspots. Take a pan and put water in, if you have standard pans you will see a hotspot ring, Professional pans reduce that significantly. The voltage decreased because of jitter in the inverter, inverter correcting cos-pi and high load in combination with voltage drop.

I switched from a Rommelsbacher with similar pattern/low quality burners to commercial grade burners in a Bartscher IK3342. They have constant draw on each level, 3 burner with 2000, 1500 and 1000 but electronic keeps it to total 3500W/16A for standard household plug when using all 3 burners. only 5% phantom load and no hotspots and are much more efficient, I cook 2 level lower then before. Mostly in the 1500-2000W area running 2 burners which is within the Victron Multi 3000´s 2400VA, so the 2nd boost inverter is not switched on by Multi.
You find them in equipment for catering services. the Bartscher is budget line with plastic case instead stainless (advantage for me as no rust spots from salty air)and louder fans (which switched to much quieter computer fans) but the commercial grade burners.

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by bensolomon

I am installing a xantrex 3000 watt inverter/charger just so I can use induction cooking and a water boiling pot for coffee. I have one Panasonic 350 Watt panel and two house batt bank for a total of 250 amp hours. I have very little power consumption, as a rule. The fridge being the biggest draw at 50 aH per day. I'm usually topped up by 2 or 3 pm from solar.

These posts are very helpful. Thank you. I have a single burner induction hob, and a CNG stove. I also have a small grill on the stern.

Thanks again,
Ben

What brand are your 250AH bank, how many ampere can you draw constant max. Most probably it’s 1C so you shouldn’t go over 0.5C regularly which is 250A*0.5=125A with 12V= 1500W in total means around 1300W induction hob possible.
Most likely your bank is too small for Xantrek on full power.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by BjarneK

I just bought this portable dual induction hob from Ikea: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/tillred...white-90497166

I thought it might be useful for others to see my test results, so here they are.

The two zones are different in that one is 2,000 W nominal and the other 1,200 W. It is a fairly inexpensive appliance.

I did some testing of the power consumption at various settings. The measurements were done with a cheap kill-a-watt style measurement device, but probably quite accurate. The input voltage was 50 Hz, between 220 V and 230 V (the voltage decreased at high power, probably just due to voltage drop in the cables leading to the appliance).

• When powered off, the consumption is 0.2 W.

The following numbers are the setting, then nominal power, followed by measured power and comments.

First the low power zone:

• 1: 100 W, 640 W, cycling on and off approx. every 22 seconds
• 2: 300 W, 650 W, cycling on and off approx. every 13 seconds
• 3: 500 W, 650 W, cycling on off off approx. every 11 seconds
• 4: 700 W, 650 W, constant
• 5: 800 W, 710 W, constant
• 6: 900 W, 810 W, constant
• 7: 1,000 W, 920 W, constant
• 8: 1,100 W, 1,010 W, constant
• 9: 1,200 W, 1,120 W, constant

The high power zone:

• 1: 150 W, 860 W, cycling on and off approx. every 19 seconds
• 2: 300 W, 860 W, cycling on and off approx. every 9 seconds
• 3: 600 W, 860 W, cycling on off off approx. every 9 seconds
• 4: 900 W, 1,140 W, cycling on off off approx. every 8 seconds
• 5: 1,100 W, 1,050 W, constant
• 6: 1,300 W, 1,250 W, constant
• 7: 1,500 W, 1,470 W, constant
• 8: 1,700 W, 1,660 W, constant
• 9: 2,000 W, 1,880 W, constant

The power factor varies from 93 % on the low settings to 98 % on the high settings.

There is a fan making some noise the entire time the appliance is providing power to the zones and a bit after, presumably to cool down. It is possible to hear the zones starting and stopping. When both zones are on, there is a high pitched noise, which is a bit annoying. The fan can shift to a higher speed on the high settings.

Setting both zones to maximum, the measured consumption was 2,790 W rather than the expected 3,000 W. This may just be the measuring device not being linear at high current (it is only rated for 2,300 W). In any case it does not seem that the power is reduced much, if at all, when both zones are active.

The appliance measures 52 cm x 28 cm x 6.2 cm which seem to be a nice size for a boat: it is big enough for two decent sized pots or pans, but not too big. The zones are meant to be oriented so one is behind the other, but turning it so the zones are side by side should be fine.

It’s a decent unit for EU boats with 3.6kW circuits. I’m not sure if they sell this in the US but it would require a 240V outlet.

The main difference with the Duxtop units I recommend for US boats is that they are limited to 1,800W (one burner or shared with two burners) and that they have a refined duty cycle for the cycling low power modes. Instead of switching on/off, they use a ramp-on, off. The ramp-on time sees the power going gradually from 0W to for example 600W in very small steps before switching off again. I’m sure this ramp is implemented with decently high frequency PWM so they actually increase the pulse width for the ramp-on.

There’s other features that are important is if the lowest setting allows simmering without boiling. We like to do cheese fondue, is the unit capable of that etc.

Also, does the unit have a thermostat mode. This mode is often misunderstood. Very expensive units have a wired sensor that you out in the pot, but most models with thermostat have the sensor under the ceramic top. This means that the heat from the pot must first go through the top before it is measured, so the feedback is delayed. This means you must either first boost it to temperature with standard settings, or allow it to take its time to get to a stable temperature.

Thermostat mode is great for deep frying etc.